It takes something special to still surprise me after 45 years of reviewing restaurants. In Japanese, when "tono", a term of respect, is affixed to a name, it denotes "master" or palace. The interpretations of Nikkei cuisine at TONO by Akira Back brings us one masterful delight after another—from the house mocktail to the extravagant dessert sculptures, each dish delivers new thrills, new revelations.
From our table for two at the floor-to-ceiling windows that open to the broad terrace on the 9th floor, our million-dollar view shows us the lights of skyscrapers twinkling around us. We watch the rain become soft snowflakes.
The room is large and at least two stories high, with airy sculptures over the large open kitchen that suggest fluffy clouds. And though the music is loud, there is a type of electronic baffling on the ceiling that keeps the sound from interfering with our conversation. The drama of the menu matches the décor of the room. Our charming server goes through the menu with us item by item, until we have a plan that includes a selection from almost every section.
Tono serves up culinary theatre. The opening scene of the evening’s performance is the house interpretation of our city: Smoky Toronto Morning. It grabs our attention and does not let go. Our server's beautifully manicured hands lift a large glass cloche and the aromatic smoke drifts out to reveal a mocktail that whispers “drink me.”
Act One: The enticing flavors of Yellowtail Crudo with grilled, fresh pineapple and a splash of yuzu soy brings a smile to our faces – no further comment required. It opens the palate to one of my favorite dishes of the night, Tono Cigars, served of course in a beautifully designed wood and glass cigar box. Open the lid and there they are. We pick one up with the enthusiasm of a Cohiba cigar aficionado taking his choice from the humidor. The cigar is made with tiger prawn. The cigar band says Tono. First, dip the business end of the cigar into jalapeno yogurt, followed by a touch of black sesame seed ash. These starters are the soulful stuff that excites the palate. Eat slowly, and savor each delicious bite.
Act Two: The drama becomes more intense with hot stone “Ishiyaki” presented as a three-step DIY course: a round hot stone and a tray of wagyu beef, shiitake and king oyster mushrooms are all meticulously sliced and ready to be cooked on the stone for 4 or 5 seconds each. Cook, dip into the “Tono Special Sauce”, and eat with eyes closed to appreciate all the flavors and textures. Handroll Taco Style Temaki of baked crab is just a shot in the dark but it sure lights up the table. The elusive flavor of dozens of shiso leaves compressed to create the crunchiest taco ever, holds baked crab in its sleeve. And there is more—it comes with a small crystal atomizer filled with an elixir to spray and add fresh flavor. This is simply a marvelous, delicious light intermission before the next Act.
I take a few sidelong glances at the dishes on neighboring tables. I am fascinated by the table-top robata where the guests are having fun grilling skewers of shrimp, beef, chicken and some vegetables. This reinforces the fact that today’s dining-out trend is not just about the food—it’s about the experience.
Act Three: Tajima Wagyu Short Rib partnered with a corn husk tamale filled with juicy corn kernels and galbicucho, a barbecue sauce that blends Korean galbi marinade and South American anticucho. There are two undisputable reasons why wagyu beef is the most prized in the world: tender, yet with a bite and taste that will spoil you from enjoying any beef other than wagyu. Charred Octopus is a showstopper, tender from the correct cooking methods and rich with oceanic flavor, it’s presented with traditional lima beans, Romesco sauce, botija olive and a grilled lemon. A two-fold surprise is the generosity of octopus on the plate which makes it excellent for sharing.
The dining room is full and it’s getting late, but we are offered dessert. We could forego this course, but there is a look in our server’s eye that says, “Don’t pass this up.” (I thanked her later). The pastry chef has outdone themself. A flirtatious round ball contains sorbet and cream filling, and the little ruffle on top makes this a very girly, and delicious confection. At first, I wonder why they bring two hot red peppers on a plate and call it dessert. Ah, Trompe Le Oiel. They are a kind of soft marzipan with a luscious cream filling that I zealously enjoy down to the last crumb.
Some purists might say, “Yes, it sounds good, but is it authentic?” Authenticity be damned. It is not the key word for me here. This is Japanese tradition meeting up with Peruvian passion, then filtered through a fusion-style sensibility and kicked up a notch. Who could ask for anything more?
Tono by Akira Back, 90 Bloor St. E, W Toronto Hotel 9th Floor, 416-961-8000