Namaste. Welcome to Adrak. In the foyer stands a huge, stylized marble sculpture of an elephant. I smile and acknowledge Lord Ganesha, who represents luck, strength, wisdom, power and longevity. And, I choose to believe, the promise of an exquisite evening.
Adrak opened at “Ave and Dav” in the Spring of 2022, and offered elegant dishes perfumed with the spices of India, adorned with edible floral garnishes. It came as no surprise that the same year, it received recognition from Michelin. On a street surrounded by shops purveying orchids, roses, birds of paradise and all manner of flowering plants, Adrak had found its perfect location.
I always consider a booth-for-two in the dining room to be the best seat in the house. First, there is a lovely surprise, served with a flourish and an explanation. Papad Ki Tokri is an arrangement of papadums of several varieties and sizes in a napkin lined basket. Each crisp is seasoned with the elusive flavours of different regions, and are to be dipped into exhilarating side dishes of assorted chutneys and salsa. Maghada, an impossibly gorgeous and complex fruit-based cocktail, wears a showy garnish of fresh fruits and an orchid. And Adraktini is an interesting trio where vodka meets espresso meets gingerbread, in a flirtatious beginning to what lies ahead.
Sliced lotus root, a remarkably unique vegetable, is fried to crispness, then tossed in a tangy, sweet, spicy tamarind reduction that leaves me breathless. I’ll need a few sips of a sweet fruity drink for balance. And then I crave a few more slices. Lotus root is an aquatic "hidden treasure". It produces a pristine, sacred flower and can remain viable for centuries. A 1,300-year-old seed was once successfully brought back to life and germinated in a laboratory, making it a symbol of longevity.
The menu meanders through tradition, modernity and innovation, listing exotic ingredients, unique cooking methods and seasonings that I don’t have on my spice rack. It’s a challenge, but the smooth manners, style and sincere good intentions without “attitude” by Pankil, our dining guide is much appreciated. He helps us choose an outstanding selection of dishes, all the while entertaining us with anecdotes and explaining the seasonings and cooking techniques.
Pankil leads us on our journey through the culinary highways and byways of India. Nothing is lost in the translation of Patrani Macchi. They’ve wrapped Chilean Sea Bass in a glistening banana leaf, and cooked it with a flavour trinity of cilantro, mint and coconut, and a finish of South Indian fish sauce and mushroom coconut Khichadi. This dish reminds me once again why I have always had a love affair with food.
A young server charms us with his smile as he makes his way to our table carrying a yard-long skewer of four giant sizzling Prawns Tandoori, each one literally as big as my fist. Marinated with sesame and fresh coconut, they are partnered with a cheese dip and apple fennel salad. These prawns are flown to Adrak from P.E.I.; just hours out of the Atlantic Ocean; only 8 to a package. In over forty-five years of reviewing restaurants in Toronto, I have never been served prawns this size—and so crisply delicious.
I am hoping that cool heads prevail in the kitchen and that my Royal Pista Lamb Chops have the spicy heat of embers and not flames. The server lifts a glass cloche releasing aromatic smoke, to reveal two good-sized chops. They’ve had the Tandoori Oven-royal treatment, and are meltingly tender, but still with bite. Now, sprinkled with pistachio crust and a bowl of mint chutney, I can honestly say they are a flavour highlight of the evening.
The dessert choices are stunning and mysterious. “Surprise me,” I suggest. My surprise is an elaborate Biscuit Gateau with lush Cinnamon Chai Latte Ice Cream and Khari. A pour of warm, salted caramel sauce finishes the sophisticated flavour profile. My partner in this dining adventure receives Kulfi Falooda, a sculpted red flower camouflaging lush mousse, and sharing the plate with tutti-frutti ice cream—a flavour that is a lavish compliment to the mousse. Honey-like dots across the plate hold tiny blossoms. It’s almost a travesty to demolish this beautiful presentation by eating it.
Adrak is a voyage of discovery for those who appreciate a sensory, memorable dining experience. Come with a group and have a feast of elevated Indian cuisine.
Adrak Yorkville, 138 Avenue Rd, 416-413-0777