Nova Scotia's coastline is a story written in salt and stone, in wind and water, and in the people who have called this edge of the Atlantic home. From the iconic granite outcrops of Peggy's Cove to the vibrant harbour of Halifax, and onward to the wild beauty of the Eastern Shores, the contrasts and connections are heartfelt.
Few places capture the spirit of Nova Scotia quite like Peggy's Cove. The attraction is in the force of nature on display, as wind and ocean waves smack against smooth granite rock that fans out to the shore. The iconic Peggy’s Point Lighthouse, built in 1915, is the most photographed lighthouse in Canada, and stands in watch while fishing boats bob up and down in the harbour.
For a kid like my son, running along layers of rocks and climbing and jumping from one perch to the next, this is the ultimate playground for a game of tag. Rocky crags jut into the water as waves hurl up and pull down. The tide rises, the tide falls while we sit hypnotized by the rhythm of the frothy ocean's roll upon roll to infinity.
Further along the shore are hiking trails, art galleries and the Oceanstone Resort. Our cozy waterfront cottage, equipped with kitchen, bedrooms and private deck, overlooks the ocean on one side, and a Hydrothermal Nordic Spa with meditation den on the other. Our dip in the ocean is only paces away from our door. Steeped in the Atlantic coastal vibe, we curl up with a book on the beach, and indulge in a hearty bowl of chowder with a meaty lobster roll, chock full of fresh lobster. We can slow down here.
One of the longest urban boardwalks in the world, the Halifax Waterfront, is a 4km bustling hub of activity where we find boat rentals, or rent bikes from I Heart Bikes, or stroll past artists, performers, shops, ice cream parlours and restaurants brimming with seafood. There are children playing in the park, and adult yoga on the pier. There are hammocks on the dock calling our names. We lie down and gently sway in the ocean breeze. One of the great experiences in Canada is to spend a day here, discovering the sights, sounds, tastes and relaxed vibe of this cultural enclave. It encapsulates the soul of Halifax, its diversity and its spirit.
Beaches along the Eastern Shore are windswept and untamed, minutes from Halifax, but worlds away. Martinique Beach, one of the longest sandy beaches in Nova Scotia, and Conrad’s Beach, with its rippling dunes, embody the raw beauty of the shoreline. Here we jump into waves with exhilaration as they crash down and drench us.
Inland is the Hope For Wildlife. A disarmingly poignant exploration that is simultaneously intimate and expansive. Experiencing wildlife with and through the eyes of a child is precious. Watching him observe and interact with the animals with his natural curiosity is heartwarming, and exemplifies the transition from human-wildlife conflict to human-wildlife connection..
"When people visit Hope for Wildlife, much of the feedback we receive isn't only about the work being done here. It's also about the feeling they're left with.” Shares Hope Swinimer. “They experience firsthand the peace and beauty of this place and it stays with them. Just as it's stayed with me."
A double entendre, Hope for Wildlife is named for its founder as well as for the collective aspiration. The care in nourishing these animals--7,000 per year--is inspiring. Medical staff tend to their needs to heal them, strengthen them, and enable them to return to their own habitat. Of the 700-800 animals on site, 60-70 are being released today.
The mission is threefold:
Rescue, rehabilitate, and release back into the wild injured and orphaned wildlife.
Educate others about the importance of conserving wild animals and the ecosystems that sustain them.
Research and develop the knowledge and understanding necessary for the conservation and management of wildlife.
High up in an observation tower we survey the land. This is not a zoo or theme park, it’s a natural environment where 300 species of injured and orphaned animals are given a second chance at life. These are real rescues. On our nature walk, we visit with animals on their perch, or nestled in a den, or gliding in the water. They are living reminders of both human impact and human compassion. The message is not lost on us, particularly my son, for whom the positive connections and deepened awareness from these interactions become more than a memory, they become an ethos.
Our visit inspires conversation about kindness and responsibility, and how to protect our wildlife. We leave having learned lessons, and with a feeling of hope.
The explorations we make along the coast---the rocks, the waves, the wildlife--carry narrative weight. From the tales of the fishing villages to the wonderland of play along the shore, we discover our place in that story.