After the rainfall, everything bursts. Sunlight dapples through the rainforest canopy and makes the leaves shine. Rivers swell and swallow their curves. Hot springs brim with therapeutic minerals. And statuesque flora, freshly showered, flaunt their beauty to bejewel the valleys within the nine lush volcanoes that crown the island of Dominica.
"Tall is her body", say the indigenous Kalinagoes, because her mountainous coastline shoots up out of the water with dramatic aplomb. I am told that although more typical of a Polynesian island, the Gods were lazy, and left this tropical paradise in the Caribbean.
What distinguishes Dominica in the Caribbean? Its paradise is found in the interior—not on beaches, but in rainforests, river systems, waterfalls, freshwater lakes and spectacular hiking trails that meander around them.
Dominicans relish in their healthy longevity and know their island as the "fountain of youth." Why? Well, move over Japan--Dominica boasts the record for most centenarians in the world. One resident, Ma Pampo, died in 2003 at age 128. Her next-door neighbour lived to 118. Pristine, unpolluted water, air and vegetation beckon residents and visitors alike to hike, reconnect and revive.
Our romantic journey to wellness begins at Coulibri Ridge where well-being and sustainability are in perfect harmony. There is a special kind of hospitality here. All our needs are met before we even know we have them. The enthusiasm to accommodate us, as though we’re the only people who matter, is immediately embracing. As our bags are whisked to our villa, we leisurely make our way up the steps, higher and higher, and inhale deeply, the humid tropical air, packed with negative ions, that reinvigorates us with every breath.
There is silence, except for the chorus of tree frogs chirping and trilling into the night. First order of business: slip into our private infinity pool and leave the world behind. Interestingly, there is no chlorine in this water. Instead, they use the ancient Roman technique of copper ionization to filter and purify. As the sun sinks under the horizon, darkness descends, and our lit-pool feels like a stage in which we are the stars.
Inside, champagne and exotic treats beckon our attention. Tropical fruits and freshly-pressed juices, plantain chips, tamarind balls, ginger bites, local chocolate—no stone is left unturned to provide all the accoutrements for our romantic escape. Indeed, the meaning of Coulibri in French is "hummingbird," a symbol of love and healing. That’s why people come here, to nourish restoration. Our villa has two floors, two terraces—one overlooking the sea and the other, the lush valley; indoor and outdoor rain showers, and a California King bed that feels like we’ve collapsed into a cloud. We love the outdoor shower with sparkling wine in hand and sunshine sparkling off the spray.
Quietude is the first step to wellbeing. The second is conscious, sustainable luxury. Coulibri Ridge is revolutionary in its sustainable practices. Conceived by French-Canadian founders, Coulibri Ridge derives 90% of its energy from solar batteries, and the other 10% from wind turbines. All the water—in the showers, the pools, and the kitchen—is from 200,000 gallons of captured and filtered rain water. The whole resort, from concept to design, is a brilliant model for others to follow in how to exist in balance with nature.
Because Dominica is a volcanic island there is massive investment in geothermal, hydro and renewable energy projects. And since the volcanic soil is so rich and fertile, the quality of ingredients is also very high.
In the comfort of the dining room, with the caress of the early morning sun and breeze upon us, we begin our day with a “pre-breakfast;” a veritable colour palette of ripe and juicy mango, pineapple, passionfruit, guava and watermelon, as well as croissants, apple tartine and fresh-from the-oven breads. Freshly brewed coffee will have to wait, because we are in love with our aromatic and nutrient-dense cocoa tea. Our Dominican breakfast arrives as a flourish of dishes that tease a range of ingredients from the Coulibri Ridge farm. Light, airy and refreshing chia pudding with sliced banana. Roasted Johnny cakes with a vibrant salsa gingerly composed brunoise-style, roasted plantain stuffed with saltfish, a delectable devilled egg, and the most crunchy and delicious rösti I have ever tasted in my entire life, hands down. Everything is so finely and delicately assembled by chefs with a velvet touch.
“Flavours make memories," enthuses Executive Chef Damien Mason. "We create memories, but what seals that memory is flavour.” This is a man whose heart is in his smile. He loves his ingredients, and each dish, each day is a new opportunity to be a true interlocutor between the bounty of the land and his appreciative guests for whom he is only too excited to share his culinary alchemy. This morning we accompany Chef Mason to the farm.
No ordinary farm, this is more like a well-tended acreage within tropical forest. With basket in hand, we follow along a grassy path—the Chef's produce aisle—that leads us to okra, scotch bonnet, cherries, avocado the size of footballs, baby asparagus, massive soursop, rocket, spinach and sugar apple. There is little need for importing ingredients. It’s all here. Pesticide-free. Chef Mason knows that food is an integral component to wellness and to the experience of staying at Coulibri Ridge. He's already thinking about how to surprise us for dinner.
To complete our Culinary Experience, we return to the kitchen to prepare lunch. Chef Mason teaches us beautiful flavour combinations that are accessible enough to replicate at home. Salad of rocket, sliced and charred papaya, toasted pumpkin seeds and a crumbling of goat cheese, is brightened with a simple vinaigrette. Tender chicken, accented with lemon grass and thyme is enlivened with tomato, red onion, diced mango and yogurt, and plated with aromatic coconut rice. Our garden-fresh lunch has now fuelled us for an afternoon of exploration in Dominica.
The volcanic titans that erupted from the sea floor, giving rise to Dominica, fortified a steep shelf around its perimeter. Rather than a sandy beach destination, it’s a haven for snorkelling and diving. Arriving at Bubble Beach, we push off from Soufriere Outdoor Center to leisurely kayak along the coves amidst the deep azure water of Soufriere Bay. After beaching our boats back on shore, we dive in, cool and refreshed, and swim out to the reef. A snorkeler’s paradise, we encounter schools of neon coloured fish from Blue Tang to Canary Wrasse, Parrotfish and Foureye Butterflyfish. Spotted Eagle Ray glide below us. Squid, octopus and moray eel undulate between sea plants and porous rocks. And hey! There’s Sponge Bob! We’re aquanauts, immersed in 360 degrees of underwater cosmos.
As we swim ashore it’s quickly evident why this is called Bubble Beach. Suddenly the water is hot—piping hot. Fumaroles vent from below. One section of water, cordoned off, looks and sounds like a Jacuzzi. We dip our toes in a far corner where a cool current tempers the heat. The effervescence tickles our feet, and oh, the tension-melting relaxation we feel as we gently slip into this nook of simmering water with mineral-absorbing therapeutic effect.
We head from seashore to riverbank to explore the Titou Gorge, where a short swim between narrow cliffs feels otherworldly. As we near the headwaters, the force, like a jet stream, hurls us against the wall where we cling to a rope. The tumble and splash from the waterfall is invigorating, but as we pull each other along, we don’t dare let go. On our return, we lazily float back, jump off rocks, and swing from a rope across the water, under the cloak of trees.
The water from Titou Gorge, along with a vast hydrographic network of streams and watersheds, flows toward Trafalgar Falls. We hike beneath a canopy of green, above tributaries of blue, alongside flowers that dazzle like jewelry, before reaching the Father and Mother Falls, 1200-1500 feet above sea level. The leaves surrounding and above the trail are so massive that we would not even know if it was raining. This is the quintessential Dominica experience that draws nature lovers, hikers and ecotourists from around the world. Here, we feel the Earth breathe and sit in meditative awe.
Before dinner at Coulibri, we enjoy an outdoor sunset yoga session. High up on our perch above the ridge, we greet the sinking fiery orb of the sun with a mindful centering and holistic encapsulation of the day.
Dinner is the main event, where Chef Mason is in his element and on his game. He flaunts Madras and Thai curries, barracuda cooked in papilot, rosemary roasted chicken in rosemary sauce, grilled shrimp with passion fruit beure blanc. The Chef’s style takes us around the world by nurturing the optimal flavour profiles of locally sourced ingredients in appropriate portions. Red Snapper is uniquely prepared: steamed with ginger and garlic to aromatic bliss, and given a jaunty cap of charred red onion salsa. So fragrant, light, and beautiful. One of the highlights is the Chef’s bold choice of Soursop, a fleshy, fibrous fruit, as a main course. Gently dusted and encrusted in a delicate fry, seasoned with chives and a zesty creole sauce atop a puck of quinoa--this is one of the most surprising dishes in my memory. His creativity and resourcefulness with his tropical pantry know no limits, and we instantly become his adoring fans.
For dessert, another selection of palate seducing tastes: caramel and chili caked pineapple, coconut sorbet, almond crumble, and a luxurious coconut panna cotta served in a coconut shell with a refreshing dollop of mango brunoise. All the ice creams—caramel, mango and coconut—are so richly flavoured and lusciously textured, that I amazed to learn they are all vegan.
The hills are alive with the sounds of tree frogs. On our late night stroll back to our villa, we both acknowledge that we could happily stay and dine here forever.
Up with the sun, we drive north to the Indian River for a Boat Safari with Cobra Tours. At first, I’m cynical. We’re in a row boat at an estuary that could be anywhere. It’s starting to rain. However, as the river narrows, the terrain completely changes. Now, it seems, we’re in the jungle. We turn into an eerie waterway lined on either side by Mangroves and Buttress roots appearing like petrified snakes that writhed and slithered away from their trunks.
Through the bayou we pass a wooden shack filmed for Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Man's Chest. Diverse wildlife, from land crabs and herons to mullets and eels, watch as the oars of our brightly painted wooden boat pull us deeper into the thicket. Our imaginations run wild as we navigate the narrowing passage of this storybook scenery. We reach a bar. Wait, what?
Our guide docks the boat and assures us there is a bar up the path. Apprehensively, we follow. Sure enough, we arrive at the Indian River Bush Bar. It looks like a tiki lounge. A sign under a broken clock reads, “Time Stands Still at the Bush Bar.” Oh, it does. There is music, and there are traditional Creole dishes and Bush provisions. Behind the bar is a disarming selection of Bush rums infused with local herbs that are not-to-be-missed.
We feel as though we’ve sidled up to a very cool speakeasy in the jungle. It does not get more off-the-beaten path than this, and it is fantastic. A few shots of “herb” infused rum later, we’re back in the boat, and it’s a bright, bright sunshiny day.
This is the "Nature Island of the Caribbean,” a lush base for canyoning, and for immersing into tropical tranquility at hot springs brimming with therapeutic minerals. Ti Kwen Glo Cho is a natural outdoor sulphur spa within a garden in the forest. Baths punctuate the forest area, and we lazily move from one thermal soak to the next. Temperatures vary in geothermal heat. We feel the pulsation of increased blood flow as we sink into a restful parasympathetic state. “Forest Bathing” has been redefined. Afterwards we sip a soothing nutraceutical tea of lemon grass, lemon, guava, soursop, mint, basil and worm grass. Could we be any more relaxed right now?
Heading back south, a sign on the road reads, “Slow Down. Iguana Crossing Area.”
We arrive at the renowned Jungle Bay Dominica resort overlooking the Caribbean Sea. Wellness enthusiasts gravitate here for yoga retreats and holistic journeys to physical, mental and spiritual health. Our yoga class is in the region’s largest and most beautifully polished wooden studio. The windows are all open to allow the perfume of the air to waft in with the warm ocean breeze. Our instructor also applies peppermint and ojas oil (native to Dominica), as well as sound to stimulate and relax our senses. She is so intuitive and knows exactly how to guide us to a natural harmony of body, mind and soul. After one hour we are relaxed and released.
Time for our Love and Harmony couples massage at the Bamboo Spa. We meander along the garden path and into a quiet room in which our massages are side-by-side with our own individual therapists. Rose pedals and candles set the tone, and our therapists knead us like dough with just the right pressure. We could get used to this. In our post-massage daze we don our robes and float to the seating area for tea. To support muscle recovery, detoxification and replenishment, we drink teas made with herbs from Jungle Bay’s herb garden. Mint is invigorating, relieves congestion and boosts mental clarity. Lemongrass relieves stress and boosts immunity. Basilic is calming, and improves brain function. We could use any one of them, but indulge in them all.
Our luxurious private cabin with polished wood interior has a secluded veranda on which we recline to watch the sunset over the bay. A soft daybed invites us to curl up with a good book, but our four-poster bed is addictively cozy. The sound of the rain on the roof lulls us to sleep.
The serenity of the forest and the morning dew, with tiny iguanas darting back and forth and the dulcet song of birds calling and responding to each other, enchant our morning walk through the garden.
Samuel Raphael is the founder and owner of Jungle Bay Dominica--his childhood dream. He guides us around the property, an "edible resort," with both deference to nature and pride in all the good that is being cultivated here. He shares with us all the ingredients grown on site, all the flavour possibilities, and nutritional and medicinal values. Drooping from branches, mangoes, papayas, soursops, cacao, guavas, carambolas, avocados, bananas and cashews proliferate. There are 100 different kinds of fruit trees here, and they’re all organic.
Raphael, like Willy Wonka, gestures to trees and plants and says, “try this”. Ylang ylang, with its sweet and creamy floral notes, lowers dopamine and increases serotonin; paracetamol plants are for pain relief; cinnamon lowers cholesterol and stabilizes blood sugar, and moringa, God's viagra, increases energy and sex drive. This Garden of Eden is as pharmaceutical as it is culinary. Ingredients here go directly to the kitchen and to the spa. It’s a farm-to-table chef’s dream come true.
Our gourmet breakfast is a panoply of ingredients freshly plucked from source. The freshest fruits and breads; locally grown coffee, fruit and vegetable smoothies, coconut water and cocoa tea; Creole dishes like Callaloo soup, saltfish, local pastries and fried plantains. Each station in the buffet at Calabash Restaurant offers something we've never seen before, and before I can finish saying,"this is my last bite," I'm already filling another plate.
Gazing at infinity, where the water meets the sky, in the warmth of the infinity pool and with sparkling wine, we are balanced and enamored from the hot springs to our heartstrings. One week in Dominica is the antidote for the turmoil of the world. Here, we receive the nourishment to breathe, the time to undercut the overwhelm, the adaptogenic ingredients for romance, wellness and to simply be.
For more information go to: www.DiscoverDominica.com