The Bruce Hotel is set back from the road. As we enter the driveway, we appreciate the lovely landscaped grounds, and the immediate sense of tranquility. The impressive architecture of the hotel combines classic and contemporary elements with a facade that messages a welcoming sophistication.
For ten years The Bruce Hotel has stood as the pillar of hospitality in Stratford. Dining has been at its core. Chefs that have graced its kitchen have always been armed with classic technique, a spirit of innovation, and a respect for local ingredients. It’s a high bar, with high expectations, but the undaunted chef of The Restaurant at The Bruce continues to raise it higher.
Chef Jacob Leblanc brings to the fore an ambitious menu that is both expansive and inclusive. Ever-changing with seasonal availabilities and Leblanc’s imagination, we’re kept on our toes and enticed to return for what’s new.
Greeted with an impeccable welcome into a dining room of white clothed tables, we’re seated in large comfy chairs that make us forget where in the world we are, and are provided warm hand towels that immediately acclimatize us to the relaxed ambience of this spacious room.
Our amuse bouche reflects a playful melange of the best ingredients Leblanc can assemble from the area. Organic roasted beet, crowned with a rhubarb compote, is delicately touched with maple vinegar, rhubarb gel and goat cheese for a refreshing palate opener.
Even on a hot summer’s day, one should rarely should pass on soup when its ingredient-base has just been freshly plucked from the farm, and so without hesitation we delight in a Leek and Celery Velouté. Our pristine white bowls are beset with one lush scoop of cool cream, accented with sherry vinegar, birch syrup and browned butter, sprinkled with Maldon salt, light, airy tapioca, truffle powder and a dash of truffle oil. One could be happy with that alone, but the thick, aromatic, table-side pour over is a seductive ladling that almost has me begging: “Please sir, I want some more.” This is the most delicious soup I can remember tasting in a long time.
I’m so involved with my own dish that I almost lose the chance to taste that of my dining companion. My son has ordered the Bison Burger, which seems to have turned him into the Hamburglar, because apparently, it’s just too good to share. Thank God for the crunchy fries, seasoned with chicken salt for an extra punch of crunch and flavour that distract him long enough for my one-bite allotment. I can honestly say this is the single most decadent burger in Stratford. The house-made brioche bun is fresh-from-the-oven soft, and in between, sticky-sweet caramelized onion marmalade, combined with smoked gouda—buttery and creamy—and a touch of lemon aioli for a subtle citric pep, all add tantalizing umami to the generous, lean and meaty burger that is cooked to the perfect à point for just the right char and delicate crunch. The textures and the balance of flavours are sinfully good. It’s a really rich and delicious burger.
The Bruce Hotel is the only boutique hotel in Canada to be honoured with a CAA/AAA Five-Diamond designation. The introduction to dinner is just the first of the special attentions shown to us, and the unique creative talents of the chef make it clear that the owner of The Bruce, Jennifer Birmingham has earned her shower of diamonds.
Our dessert of Eton Mess is a whimsical construction with a kiss of sweetness that is like unwrapping a gift. A layer of thick cream is decorated with broken pieces of meringue and shards of sea buckthorn that are pulled together by a sour honey gel with a hint of floral notes. There is a dusting of bee pollen, delicate milk flakes, and touch of Maldon salt that cleverly balance out this culinary potpourri. Each spoonful leads me closer to its hidden piece of cake.
Service here is genuine and congenial, and we feel so comfortable. Every detail is taken care of—and with sincere hospitality. Walking-distance to the theatre adds to the pleasure of dining at The Bruce, but with the introduction of cooking classes, cooking competitions and farm tours, the simple comfort of an easy getaway here reaffirms this truly one of Ontario’s hidden gems.
