A private tasting of the new Fall/Winter menu at Louix Louis was one of my finest dining experiences of the year.
“You’re in for a surprise,” I say to my guest as we find a comfortable table in The Astor Lounge. We’re having cocktails before dinner at Louix Louis, the magnificent dining room on Floor 31 of the St. Regis Hotel. We’ll be tasting their new Winter menu. Now, a hush of anticipation falls over the lounge. It is 6:00pm sharp. The Sabrage begins.
The sommelier lifts an ornate sabre from a silk-lined box, picks up a bottle of fine Champagne and aligns it just so—and in one flamboyant whack! sabres the neck of the bottle right off, and calmly pours champagne into flutes. The Astor Lounge has this performance every day. (Don’t try this at home.)
There are classes available in the city, if you want to Wow your friends.
The tradition dates back to the early 19th century and is most often associated with Napoleonic France. After Napoleon’s victories, his cavalry officers, the hussars, were known to celebrate by dramatically opening Champagne bottles with their sabres. The story goes that when they rode up to estates offering Champagne, they didn’t bother dismounting—they simply sliced the tops off the bottles with one stroke. Why bother with corks, my dear? It became a symbol of bravado, victory, and celebration, blending martial pride with aristocratic indulgence.
The elevator glides up, up to Louix Louis. The scene is breathtaking. Before us is a vast wall of discreetly-lit shelves holding the world’s finest spirits, helmed by award-winning mixologist Maude Fortin whose imagination and palate know no bounds. The eye travels up to the height of a European castle and a muralled-ceiling painted like swirls of whiskey, and chandeliers in the shape of glasses for spirits. We’re seated at a circular leather booth from where we continue to admire our surroundings.
The house cocktail, House of Common, is made with saffron-infused Hennessy VS Cognac, Grand Marnier, fig syrup, lemon juice, egg white, red wine, and is an unusually savoury beverage to enjoy while we read the amazing menu. Richard Salas, Executive Sous Chef, brings us a gift of two “first bites.” Their deliciousness defies description. At this point, I feel the need to explain to my guest, the renowned Fitness Guru, Johnny Rupani, that we have won the lottery for dining experiences tonight. This is a cut above the usual evening out in Toronto.
House Brioche straight-from-the-oven, comes with cultured-honey butter and brilliant emerald-cut Maldon Salt. A few of these tiny jewels make magic. A melange of Vadouvan and caramelized squash in a bowl, along with a crouton crisped with pumpkin seeds and crispy sage sits on the rim, waiting patiently for completion with a pour of golden, velvety Squash Veloute. A Winter Salad, the fixings culled from the Atlantic Provinces, brings the crunch of endive and candied-walnuts, PEI Blue Cheese, the juiciness of shaved apples and roasted pears and the tang of lemon, chives and triple crunch mustard vinaigrette. With this, we enjoyed the last of the Brioche.
A teaser to our fish course is a scallop, lightly seared and sitting regally on a bed of beluga lentils and shaved fennel, bejewelled with dots of red Sauce Soubise. Cooked to the split second of perfection, Dover Sole Amandine is served alone, with no competition on the plate except enhancers of capers, almonds, chives and lemon, and a light splash of Vin Blanc. Clearly this Chef speaks the language of sea creatures.
“But what about the service?” you may well ask. Is there any more perfect service than one that is so unobtrusive, so fine-tuned that a simple lifting of a hand brings a server; a water glass that is never empty; no plate removed till both of us leave our cutlery on the plate at 5:00 o’clock, signifying we are done?
We’re taking a break, enjoying a glass of Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile and we’re aware of the pleasing hum of conversation in the room. Such un-Toronto-style. There is no ear-splitting music, no diners and servers shouting to be heard. Near us, a happy celebration for a half dozen guests includes a slice of the room’s specialty: a thirteen-layer chocolate King’s Cake. Nary a cell phone in my line of vision, but people just having animated conversations, exchanging ideas and having some laughs, all without raising their voices. The ambiance is relaxing.
The P.E.I. Prime 8 oz, Filet Mignon is served medium rare, with the flourish it deserves. Accessories have been chosen with care: parmesan-flecked Brussels sprouts, a few roasted mushrooms, potatoes and a splash of jus. Beef reaching its highest pinnacle. Are you reading this, Mr. Michelin?
My guest and I agree that a nice espresso would fill the bill for the evening. But the pastry chef has other ideas. A trio of extraordinary confections are placed before us. The manager lights some cognac and pours it over the Cherry Baked Alaska bringing out an intoxicating aroma. A poached Pear Financier, perfectly robed in chocolate, stands tall as if daring us to take a bite. And how do we gracefully eat the multi layers of the peanut and chocolate Mille-Feuille? Johnny has a plan for sharing.
You have been shy and hiding your treasures on the 31st floor, Louix Louis. It’s time to have a coming-out party. Toronto’s food lovers will thank you, as do we.
Louix Louis, St Regis Toronto, 325 Bay Street, 416-637-5550