Enigma is Austin Zhao’s first restaurant. After five years, he has stepped forward from his role as the silent financial partner, and is hands on, totally involved and loving it. Everything he knows about restaurants he learned growing up in a family who travelled often and frequented fine dining rooms. He loved the vibe in these elegant Asian and European dining rooms, and is now shaping ENIGMA with his own vision.
“The first thing I did,” says Austin, “I called all the staff together and I said, I want everyone to relax.” By this one comment, he released Enigma from the strict constraints that were so prominent in the past. A man with a plan, he carefully procured new key management that were on his wave-length. Executive Chef Zachary Barnes, Director of Operations Gordon Adams and the enthusiastic Sommelier Vesper Zhu have totally shifted the axis in the room. Almost immediately, the ambiance meter shot to the top of the charts. A cursory glance around the room shows laughter, animated conversation and a full house. Enjoyment reigns supreme.
We’re seated at the Chef’s Table (the bar) on a Thursday evening at the last two seats available. This is a different point of view from what I’ve had on previous visits. And it’s interesting to follow the choreography of the crew in the open kitchen: professional, adept, and unflustered. The drinks-master appears to be having as much fun as the guests who he continues to delight with his creative cocktails of sake, tequila and other exotic spirits. We begin our culinary journey with a flute of sparkling Brut from Huff Estates Winery in Prince Edward County, made specially for Enigma.
The Eight-Course Tasting Menu is inspirational.
A trio of canapés, each one totally unique: Tuna Tartlet with bright soy lime dressing; lobster, scallion and chili, miso mayo and shiso in a crisp Spring Roll Tuile; and Short Rib Croquet with black garlic are culinary poetry in three substantial verses. If I had to choose a favorite, it would be the tuna tartlet. An oceanic treat fills the crisp pastry shell—small cubes of chopped tuna, wear a jaunty cap of pink tuna.
An indulgence is a duo of oysters—in August—definitely not an oyster month. Kombu Poached French Josephine Oyster on spinach greens with sparkling Kaviari Caviar, is partnered with a Tempura East Coast Oyster, enhanced with black winter truffle and a shred of celeriac slaw. Every morsel puts its best foot forward. The generosity of the kitchen in presenting these precious ingredients is noted. The WOW factor is off the charts. Only an audacious Chef like Zach Barnes, a risk-taker with split-second timing, could dare poach or tempura-fry an oyster—and succeed in creating an ambrosial dish.
They have coaxed the most gracious flavours from Dungeness Crab, enhanced it with leek oil, creamy Bavarois using the Tomalley—sometimes called crab-fat and not usually harvested—then spiked it with tart Lemon Gel and added crisp edamame and asparagus tips. First, we admire—then we eat. To pair with the crab is a beautiful Chenin blanc from the Stellenbosch region of South Africa. It's made like a white Barolo.
Vesper Zhu is so passionate about the wines she has chosen for our dining experience, and her excitement is contagious. We enjoy learning about the wine, and why it pairs so well, and so we appreciate each selection that much more.
Foie Gras Terrine is a favorite extravagance of mine, and here, I close my eyes for a moment and enjoy the rich mouth-feel of silk and velvet. The chef, in his wisdom, paired the foie gras with Vanilla Cherry Jam, and it is wonderful. The texture component is crisp black sesame tempura. Grilled Shokupan rounds out the flavour profile. Zhu pairs for us an Inniskillin Cabernet Franc Ice Wine, which complements the cherries, and enlivens the foie gras with a rich balance of sweetness and tartness.
Zhu knows that a really good wine pairing is like that one essential ingredient that doesn't compete, but enhances the profile and quality of the dish, amplifying our enjoyment with subtlety and finesse.
A return to the sea and a very pretty brioche crusted salmon surrounded by crab mousseline on a splash of Nori Beurre Blanc, a glossy spread of parsnip puree roe, and a few slices of Daikon that add juicy crunch. Oh, how we love precious excess.
Time for reflection.
Checking the menu, I see there are four courses remaining. It’s a double-edged sword. My appetite quotient and happiness meter are both fulfilled. At this moment, I can’t eat another bite. And no, I will not ask them to box up the remainder to take home. I need a time out. I stroll through the unique white tunnel-like entrance to have a look-see at the MaCallan Lounge, which seems even more romantic and inviting this evening than on my last visit. I step outside and chat with some folks relaxing on the front patio.
Refreshed, I am back just in time for the main courses. Chicken breast encircles a lush stuffing, is topped with crackling crispy chicken skin, and is accompanied by stems of broccolini and almonds, all enhanced by exquisite Sauce Abulfera. Culinary precision forms a circle on the plate: a feisty, rare, thick slice of dry-aged Ontario Ribeye with a smoky essence from the Binchotan charcoal grill; a crisp Fondant Potato, a good spoonful of golden Hollandaise atop grilled scallion, and to round out this circle of love, a juicy confit shitake mushroom.
A palate cleanser. Of course. Luscious Mango Jasmine smoothie with yogurt foam gently prepares us for what is to come. Halved Peaches are coaxed into a sculpture, and cremeux, compote, jelly, honey, and Camomile parfait are anchored by crumbly shortbread crust. And a second reward: an embarrassment of riches that include dark and silky Chocolate Mousse with Miso Caramel, crunchy layers of Buckwheat Financier, and a savoury brown butter tuille.
Only social discipline keeps me from standing up and shouting, “Bravo!” to the small talented group who have fulfilled every nook and cranny of my palate.
And, finally, there is the Enigma Signature Tree, the glittering curtain call to an extraordinary meal. A sculptured tree of sparkling copper wire holds delicate Fennel Yuzu macarons that burst with flavour—a friendly goodbye kiss.
Enigma, 23 Saint Thomas Street, 416-323-3332