I have seen the future–and it is Bar Romy.
The revolution in dining out has been as subtle as revolutions usually are. And then it’s here and we look around and say, “Hey, when did that happen.” There was no goodbye party. Recognizing that it is being replaced by razzle dazzle, and a room that photographs Gorgeous! and gets thousands of hits on social media, the traditional formula of the three-course meal is quietly packing up its white tablecloths and going out to pasture.
You ask for proof? The creative menu at Romy represents “freedom of choice,” the punch-line for today’s society.
Lunch from 11:30 to 5:00: Panini is offered. How about Inferno, with ‘nduja, soppressata, eggplant, arugula, pepperoncini, stracciatella. Too much? There is a simple Caprese with tomato, mozzarella, basil, and balsamic. Drinks after work until Go-Train traffic dies down: An enticing cocktail, Mezcaliente made with Ilegal Mezcal, Aperol, Limoncello, mango purée, blood orange, lemon, and spicy bitters (or make it non-alcoholic.) And from the Fritti menu, an order of Calamari with pickled Calabrian peppers or intriguing Hen of the Woods mushrooms with truffle.
Servers might recommend Salumi e Formaggi for one or two, and it may be exactly what you wanted, with a glass of wine from their extensive selection of Italian whites or reds by-the-glass.
Late night for “afters”: Open until 1:00 a.m. Thursday, Friday, Saturday. You might be inclined to enjoy a sexy cocktail, Kiss & Tell with tequila, Campari, lemon, coconut puree, coconut cream and egg white. And perhaps a small nibble of Ricotta with truffle honey, black pepper and charred bread. Or, share a Pizza from the amazing pizza oven in the open kitchen. Pair a luxurious, gently peppered Cacio e Pepe or an umami-rich Pancetta with a glass of Italian wine from a menu that spans every province of Italy.
Three of us have come for dinner. We choose to forgo the lovely patio, which tonight appears to be one giant cocktail party, and dine inside. A banquette awaits, and I recognize that every table in the room is a good table. Another example of clever design is the mirrored ceiling with giant hanging columns holding their vast selection of wines. Reflected, they seem double the height.
The open kitchen at the back end is a hive of activity with a huge pizza oven as a focal point. They have used the elements of colour and mirror to sculpt the mood to be relaxing and exciting at the same time. Now, drinks ordered: One Barbie Girl of Grey Goose vodka, lychee liqueur, dragon fruit, lemon, lychee, soda. And two non-alcoholic. (All cocktails are available non-alcoholic)
This menu requires attention. I like to begin with the process of elimination and choose from what remains. But here, I could close my eyes, point, and be happy with the selection. We’re dining family-style, sharing fresh Ricotta drizzled with truffle honey, a sprinkling of cracked pepper, and large crisps that convey the silken, lemony, creamy cheese to our mouths. Branzino Crudo, a rare treatment for this fish, luxuriates in olive oil piqued with orange and rosemary, and is the perfect dish for a hot summer evening.
Taglierini Vongole is presented in a swirl on the plate, bathed in a golden sauce and topped with tiny clams (sans shells). Just one of the fresh pastas from the one-and-only Famiglia Baldassare, that includes Farfallone, Bucatini, Spaghetti and more. (Famiglia Baldassare has closed their restaurant to concentrate on what they do best–making pasta.)
Having been crowned by my family as “the best lasagna maker ever,” I am an aficionado on the subject, and seeing this item on a menu in summer intrigues us. However, this Lasagne Verde is different. Rather than the traditional recipe that provides warm comfort in winter, this is a delectable dish to share at any time. Two sheets of green lasagne pasta sandwich veal Bolognese and melted Pecorino Romano.
We all know that the corner piece of lasagne is always the most coveted, because it’s the crunchiest. This crisped and charred innovation means that every bite provides a crackling crunch. Rich in flavour, it is a light dish that stands out as a winner.
A cornerstone of Northern Italian gastronomy is the Cotoletta alla Milanese. This bone-in Crispy Veal Chop is pounded, breaded and fried. It’s a large portion, lightly seasoned, splashed with lemon and crowned with a mound of arugula. Though very tasty, there is pool of oil on the plate that does not serve the dish as well, because while the golden crust is admirably crisp, the excess oil leaves a weighty texture that overshadows the lightness of the main ingredient.
I am considering an unusual cocktail that caught my eye. Yes, No, or maybe next time. I shall return for “Old Money”, a cocktail made with Monkey Shoulder Whisky, ginger, golden beets and candied beets.
Dessert of Brown Butter Torta with three spoons, please. The crisp tart shell with a big scoop of ice cream covered in a nutty, luscious sauce has the decadent flavour that we all love. A crunch of hazelnut and lacquer of caramel make each velvety spoonful a palate-seducing finale.
Bar Romy, 647-794-1994, 295 Adelaide St W