It’s called The Canadian Hug. “The more rye used in making the whisky, the more warmth in your chest” said our host with a smile."
Dr. Don Livermore, Master Blender at J.P. Wiser's, and recently proclaimed Best Master Blender in the world – ever, was hosting J.P. Wiser’s Prestige Dinner at Reign, in the Fairmont Royal York Hotel.
In Reign, the elegant private dining room, whisky aficionados and collectors gathered to taste five, yet to be released, whiskies. Menus fitted into burnished leather holders elicit ed comments and nods of approval. Chef Roland Torok-Ducharme introduced his dishes and whisky pairings, and the curtain was raised on an evening of spectacular food and drink.
Foie Gras Torchon is partnered on the plate with tart Ontario rhubarb gel, a mini brioche, crisply toasted with a spread of duck fat and for texture, a sprinkle of pistachios which seem to be having their fifteen minutes of fame this year. If this were the only dish on the menu, I would have been happy. But there were more delectables to come. J.P. Wiser’s Red Letter whiskey surprised me in the excellent way it paired with foie gras--which goes against traditional white wine. Red Letter is made from corn and a hint of rye in new oak casks. It’s not available at the LCBO at this point since few bottles were produced.
The bottle is shaped like a thick square book that could only be poured with one very strong large hand. “What would be the correct way for someone like me to hold that bottle for pouring?” I ask. “I’ve never been asked that question in my entire life” replies Dr. Don, as he shows me how to hold the bottle with a hand on each side and tip it to pour. Clever.
“Canada was not always known for whisky” says Dr. Don “for the British Navy on the East Coast, the drink was Rum. It was not until 1769 in Quebec City that some stalwart entrepreneurs mixed corn, barley and oats and made Moonshine.”
As time went on there were four Distillers: Gooderham & Worts who milled grain for a living—and made whisky. Henry Corby, a bread maker who shipped grain. Hiram Walker, an American who sold Moonshine and put it through Charcoal to take out the impurities. It sold for 9 cents a gallon. J.P. Wiser from Ogdensberg, N.Y. was a farmer who raised cattle and had 60,000 head. And Louis Pasteur, at the same time, discovered the organisms that converted the mash to alcohol.
Our second course of delicate Roasted Sea Bass, comes encircled by an ode to Spring of perky vegetables, peas, asparagus, morels and baby fennel nestled in velvety whisky lobster bisque. It’s partner, an elegant J.P. Wiser’s 28-Year-Old with its lovely mouth feel, pairs so naturally with the fish. Before this tasting I would have scoffed at the idea of fish paired with whisky.
As we continued sipping our whisky, Dr. Don talked about the global depression in the 1870’s when whisky was sold in barrels that had been burned out to get rid of the smells. The railroad came, whisky barrels were tossed on a train, and sold by the barrel at train-stops. The price was $1.00 a barrel. Until, in 1880 there was mass production in glass bottles and everything changed.
On to our third course: Oak Smoked Wagyu Picanha, served rare and tender as butter, came accessorized by lush charred carrot puree, a tangy element of pickled Shimeji mushrooms, and a flavour hit of black garlic jus. The picanha cut is un-common hereabouts, and I was prompted to find it and serve it to my delighted family. The whisky, J.P Wiser’s 27-Year-Old aged in rare Mizunara Oak barrels from Japan (3,900 Euros per barrel). This rich and velvety whisky is perfectly paired with beef.
In the 1900’s Canada was built on whisky and the fur trade. Guns were checked at the border and repatriated on departure. And, as the Government stepped in with an Inland Revenue Act, Hiram Walker was not happy, grumbling that the Government is taking the lions share, without making a capital investment. The real story of Prohibition as it affected Canada is filled with shenanigans. Between 1920 – 1923, Canada shipped whisky to the U.S. at $1.00 a case. The Canadians were rum-runners crossing Lake Ontario, back and forth.
Dessert. The final course, Grand Cru Chocolate Tarte is beyond gorgeous. manjari truffle mousse, chocolate sable breton, and snuggled alongside, mixed berry compote. And the taste? Like eating beauty. It is escorted by a distinguished cocktail of Pomme Dessert Cocktail, with J.P. Wiser’ 24-Year-Old, Becherovka, baking spice, maple, and a drop of citrus oil.
A splendid evening at Reign fulfilled all the senses: educational certainly; visually appealing; a flavour bonanza for the palate. The experience starred J.P. Wiser’s great whiskies, with a supporting cast of dazzling dinner dishes, served with impeccable style.