Chocolate is the most misunderstood ingredient. Everyone loves it, and yet few actually use it in their cooking. Baking, yes. On their own as bars and truffles, yes. But, as global consumption tops 10 million tonnes annually, it’s interesting to note that this ingredient, one of the most popular and most widely consumed, is so under-utilized in cooking. When was the last time we saw chocolate or cacao in the appetizer or entrée section of a restaurant menu? Or, for that matter, when was the first time?
Well, how about an 8-course chocolate dinner? Recently at restaurant Azura, Chef Adam Ryan, joined by Chef Moeen Abuzaid of Arbequina, combined forces to create an inspired tasting menu showcasing the versatility of Callebaut chocolate. I am greeted with a beautifully balanced chocolate espresso martini infused with Callebaut Fleur de Cao Dark Chocolate and bejewelled with chocolate espresso beans. Oh, what’s that? Yes, I’ll have another. Then come the passed-hors d'oeuvres. Mushroom Profiteroles that actually look like porcini mushrooms are piped with a porcini and gorgonzola mousse and dusted with Callebaut Tanzania Dark Chocolate to complete their Penny Bun appearance. Cannoli of foie gras and Cacao Barry Alunga Milk Chocolate makes me want to steal the tray from the waiter and hide in the corner. Nuances of smoke, burnt orange and a unique blend of cocoa nibs and za’atar make this a brilliant confection.
If the evening were to end there, I would have felt satisfied, and yet we’ve not even begun. Our first course is a creamy wedge of avocado drizzled in Cacao Barry Zephyr White Chocolate, an essence of rosemary and basil tomato water, and a jaunty cap of caviar. Each of these ingredients harmonize so mellifluously to reveal an arrangement that surprises us all in how well it all works in both texture and flavour.
Bread and Chocolate, two staples in my pantry, marry beautifully in this next course. Two loaves of bread, courtesy of baker extraordinaire Matthew James Duffy, aka Sourdough Duffy, are so chock full of goodness. One is a crusty multigrain sourdough that nourishes the soul; the other is cocoa-infused and interspersed with bits of chocolate that elicits rich tones of bitterness with subtle sweet notes in between. They are accompanied by two dips: one dark chocolate labneh and one Jerusalem artichoke hummus. Within these velvety smooth textures lies a balance of Callebaut Dominican Republic, Callebaut Tanzania, Cacao Barry Zephyr and Extra Brute Cacao Powder. Were we not attending a chocolate dinner, we might not have recognized the chocolate notes, but would simply wonder at the je ne sais quoi ingredient that has provided such enhanced depth.
Seared scallop mousse with cauliflower, tahini and rhubarb and a touch of both Cacao Barry Zephyr White Chocolate and Callebaut Gold Chocolate, paired with a citric, mineral, Domaine de la Pépière Briords, flaunts the dynamic palettes of these two chefs that pull inspiration from near and far. But wait, stop the press! The Cocoa Cappelletti course is the mic drop of the night. A ragu of beef cheek stuffed into a thin ring of fresh cocoa-infused pasta is enrobed in a lacquer of chocolate demi-glace, enriched with dried figs, pine nuts, cocoa nibs and praline, and paired with the juicy black cherry notes of a Hidden Bench Pinot Noir. The confluence of Callebaut Dominican Republic, Extra Brute Cacao Powder, Cacao Barry Matsiro and Cocoa Nibs amps the umami of this dish to a wonderful lip-smacking bliss.
Now our culinary journey dips into Middle Eastern cuisine. A Moroccan Syrah, Domaine Ouled Thaleb Syrocco, whets our palates for a generous heft of lamb, lavished with a melange of black garlic, chocolate caramel and an aromatic Baharat spice blend. Here, the inclusion of Callebaut Fleur de Caro Dark Chocolate and Cacao Barry Cocoa Nibs adds dynamic gravy-like richness that is complex and refined.
Our next dish is a masterful blend of Callebaut Dominican Republic, Plein Arome Cacao Powder, Callebaut Tanzania, Cacao Barry Inaya and Cacao Barry Extra Bitter Guayaquil in a piquant cocoa and espresso-rubbed Venison Striploin that is balanced with the acidity of a Moroccan-Italian style kimchi, and paired with a sensuous Chateau Musar Hochar. One lush scoop of velvety mashed potato is enlivened with Cacao Barry Zephyr White Chocolate and leaves me swooning at the thought that this is so dreamy and yet simple enough that I can make it at home! The increasing complexity of this menu has met its crescendo and serves to reveal the infinite possibilities, influences and inflections to be explored with the right measure of high-quality chocolate.
After so many artful dishes, what could dessert possibly be? This is the pride of Chef Abuzaid that elevates chocolate cake to another level with a blend of Callebaut Tanzania, Callebaut Dominican Republic and Cacao Barry Alunga. Milk Chocolate Namalake, a smooth ganache, accompanied by a cloud-like Olive Oil Whipped Cream and a tuile of cocoa nibs, is sprinkled with Extra Brute Cacao Powder and paired with a beautiful raisin-y Toro Albalá Poley Pedro Ximénez Dulce Montilla-Moriles.
What distinguishes Callebaut chocolate is its low roasting technique that develops flavors gradually while protecting delicate notes and subtle aromas. The result is a range of flavour profiles from floral, fruity or tropical, to sweet, bitter or sour; roasted and nutty or caramel-y and warm-spiced. Beyond sweet, the possibilities to infuse chocolate in cooking for enriched flavor and texture are endless.