In a world of turmoil and traffic, there is nothing, I tell you, nothing more cathartic than wielding an axe in either hand to hack away at ice stalactites that scaffold a cliff in the pristine quiet of Elora Gorge, to climb higher and higher and higher.
Elora is fairy tale-pretty, and with its European storybook-charm, is renowned as “Canada’s Most Beautiful Town.” Immersion into the natural oasis on which it is perched, and with the right guide, is just what the doctor ordered to recharge family and reignite romance through winter.
Our day begins with Responsible Tourism Award winner, One Axe Pursuits, run by a passionate and adventure-loving couple who seek to bring people together, bring people outdoors, to strengthen relationships and experience the most fun nature can afford. We meet at church.
After receiving rules and instruction inside, we layer-up, harness-up, and make our way outside and down into the gorge where the river meets the cliff. Immaculate, frozen, caked in fluffy white snow; the serenade of silence, like a tuning fork, sets a tone that immediately balances our energy and promotes our relaxation. The vertical surface of ice drapes like frosted candle wax.
As a metaphor for life, ice climbing is not about strength. The more we muscle it, the more quickly we’ll tire out. There is technique, fluidity and faith. With crampons strapped to our boots, we kick the ice to prop ourselves up and hook our ice axes to anchor to the wall. My son releases his inner Wolverine and quickly climbs, while I, like a koala, take my time and leisurely look around.
In our group, one couple works together: one climbs, one belays. "I've got you," she assures, as he navigates his route. And then they switch. Each accomplishing their goals independently while trusting the other to have their back.
The feeling of accomplishment is, as my son exclaims, "Awesome!" Yes, it's a challenge. It's also beautiful. We climb at our own pace to our own limit. For me, inch by inch, the moments of struggle are not failures, but plateaus to pause, regain energy and overcome. In the words of Miley Cyrus, “Ain't about how fast I get there. Ain't about what's waiting on the other side. It's the climb.”
And as my son eagerly reaches the top, beaming with pride, this little Edmund Hillary proves “It is not the mountain we conquer, but ourselves.” Enjoying the journey precludes the nerves and nourishes the growth in our confidence along the way. It brings out the kid in me, and the man in him.
We take turns climbing and belaying for each other, and there are several climbs to choose. One more vertical, and one with a more shallow slope that wraps around a tree. I'm happy to stop at an ice cave where I can sit and breathe-in this enchanting Narnia-scape of tranquility.
Frederick Schuett, our supportive guide and the founder of One Axe Pursuits, keeps it easy, safe and fun. We're exhilarated and grateful for our fantastic getaway experience--so near for an easy escape, but a world away from the clutter we left behind.
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Now, we’ve earned our appetite, it’s pizza o’clock, and one of the world’s finest pizzaiolos has recently opened shop in the mews of Elora. Tony’s Sourdough Pizzeria is not like anything we anticipated. First of all, Tony Bish is Thai, and his former pizzeria in Bangkok was voted one of the "World's 50 Best." He has cooked for royalty, and won the praise of discernible palates across Elora for whom his pies are the talk of the town!
Patience. Bish lets his sourdough rest for 72 hours so the yeast can ferment to optimal flavour.
Uniqueness. Toppings are inspired and meld into the pizza in a way that maintains a crisp carriage and a mellifluous blend of complimentary flavours and contrasting textures. The Margot Burrata is a Margherita elevated on multiple levels. Plump Ontario heirloom tomatoes balance the bright acidity of Californian tomato sauce for a tangy base, on which dollops of fresh burrata are crowned with Parmesan crisps. The blending of burrata, milky and creamy, with the sharp crunch of parmesan, is drizzled with a soft herbaceous splash of basil oil for a lush mouthfeel. That is one of the standout features of these pizzas—the mouthfeel of all the ingredients harmonizing together.
The Truffle Umami Pie is inspired by Tony’s travels to Japan. Locally foraged mushrooms like Pink Oyster, Black Oyster and Chestnut provide a meaty confluence of intense earthy and nutty notes, balanced with truffle cream and truffle-infused white soy, with kisses of black garlic, lemon, a delicate sprinkling of chervil, and a beautiful drizzling of olive oil for unctuous, umami-rich decadence.
Praise be the Braise Be. This is a divine 'za that marries the savory notes of demi-glace with the nutty, creamy, sharp notes of Fontina and Gruyere. Melt-in-your-mouth 24hr braised short-rib is enrobed by house-made kettle chips that contrast the tenderness with a crackle and a crunch.
My son is a pepperoni lover, and is mesmerized by a steaming pie of sizzling beef pepperoni, gently charred for crisp edges.
Bish was trained in French cuisine and taught at renowned Thai cooking schools like The Blue Elephant, but his first love was his grandmother’s sourdough pancakes that she would bake for him when he was a child, and that would eventually become his calling. With his wood-fired Fiero Forni oven of refractory stone, he churns out 100-150 pizzas per day. We’re told to come early, because once they’re gone, that’s all folks. Uncommon and out-of-the-ordinary, these pizzas alone are worth a visit to Elora.
The centrepiece of Elora’s alluring tableau is the Elora Mill, perched over the Elora Gorge Falls.
Elora Mill, a 19th Century limestone construction, is so pretty in every season, but in winter, it’s like a castle within a snow globe. At the Elora Mill Spa, we begin our Winter Wellness Circuit by gazing at the Falls while sipping herbal tea for internal hydration. We follow this with a warm shower to open the pores, before sitting in the Dry Sauna to boost our circulation and warm our bodies for our entry outside. No surprise: the transition to the c-c-c-cold night in our wet bathing suits is chilling, but also stimulates the immune system (so I’m told.) In short order, we frigidly make our way into the Outdoor Heated Pool. Okay, we’re getting warmer, and gingerly wade back and forth.
The jewel in the crown is the Outdoor Hot Tub, into which I collapse like a melting Slinky. Steam pours up to the scintillating snowy night. Snow caps the toques on our heads as we sip hot cider and soak in a cauldron of bubbly hot water. We are detoxing, resetting, relaxing, and in no rush to be anywhere but here.
Exiting the hot tub, we see that our slippers are frozen. The few paces to the door will demand a Herculean effort, but with hot chocolate in hand, we know we can make it. The final steps in the circuit include a Cold Rinse Shower and a Rest and Integration with infused water and tea, but one remaining step consumes me: the Steam Room. This eucalyptus bliss is all we need. Deeply relaxing and enhancing our respiratory wellness, there is no more beneficial time of year to indulge in this experience than winter. Breathe in, breathe out. And the time passes slowly. My whole body feels reinvigorated. What could be better than a day of ice climbing followed by this luxurious thermal spa cycle?
We are totally refreshed and rejuvenated from our day in Elora, but cannot leave the Elora Mill and drive back home without dining at the restaurant.
Tempura-fried brassica leaves are well seasoned crunchy goodness with smoked cream and trout roe. Beef Tartare is a soft and silky melange of local beef and egg yolk with a miso spread on a nutrient-dense Danish rye. The Falls are illuminated at night for an ethereal glow on which we gaze while enjoying this menu of local farm-fresh ingredients. Wild Mushroom Tart is earthy and creamy within a fork-shattering flaky and puffed opulent purse of locally foraged lion’s mane, maitake, oyster and honey mushrooms, nourished in a fondue of mascarpone cheese, accented with parsley oil.
The 12oz Striploin showcases the quality of the region. Perfectly pink and seasoned, lean but tender, every juicy, robust morsel reaffirms why Southwestern Ontario product is the envy of the world. This is a steak lover’s steak, cooked by a chef who trusts their product and lets it shine. Sharing the plate are sautéed greens, crisp potato pavé, goat cheese fondue and tomato relish that hit all the right notes to complete the symphony.
When dining at Elora Mill in Wellington County we order Beef Wellington. There’s no question about that. This is the pièce de resistance—a Wellington that would make Gordon Ramsay blush.
Beef Wellington is not a dish that shouts; it arrives, with orbits of colour and texture that stand alone without need for decoration or explanation. A toasty golden crunch encases layers of spinach crepe and prosciutto that envelope a rosy, tender-as-a-pillow tenderloin hugged in duxelles. Simple, beautiful, and with a luxurious glossy lacquer of red wine reduction for a lip-puckering savory finish, every bite is the height of satisfaction.
Dessert? Why not. One silken Dark Chocolate Tart of rich chocolate, smooth and dreamy, is dusted with sea salt, and accompanied by a dollop of Chantilly cream and a palate-seducing pecan praline caramel sauce.
Service at Elora Mill is so genuinely congenial, we just don’t want to leave.
One day of catharsis, pampering, good food and good time, is all we needed. Departing this decoratively-lit village, we drive away between the luminescence of the snow and the moon.