Kushiro’s Coastal Feast – Hokkaido’s Gourmet Paradise

An exploration of Japan's northern oasis of gastronomy
A Pair of Cranes that Symbolizes Kushiro Region. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA
A Pair of Cranes that Symbolizes Kushiro Region. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA
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7 min read

Home of Japan’s majestic red-crowned cranes, Kushiro is a place where nature and culture live in harmony. On Hokkaido’s far eastern shore, this mist-shrouded city greets visitors with a cool Pacific breeze, vast wetlands, and a serenity that feels worlds away from the island’s bustling centers.

It’s a quieter, gentler Japan—where the silhouettes of cranes rise through morning fog, and the scent of the sea drifts through open-air markets. More than just a port city, Kushiro is a meeting point of land, sea, and spirit—a destination where food, culture, and tradition flow together.

From bustling seafood markets to Ainu villages alive with Indigenous heritage, this region invites Canadians to slow down, savour deeply, and taste the edge of Japan.

(Tip: Most small vendors don’t take cards—bring cash!) 

A Sample of Kattedon Seafood Delicacies at the Washou Market. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA
A Sample of Kattedon Seafood Delicacies at the Washou Market. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA

Washo Market and the Joy of Katte-don

Start your culinary adventure at Washo Market (和商市場), the lively heart of Kushiro’s food culture. The local specialty is katte-don—a “build-your-own” seafood bowl. With a simple bowl of rice, wander from stall to stall choosing your toppings: golden sea urchin (uni), glistening salmon roe (ikura), sweet scallops, or buttery king crab legs.

I admit, I was cautious at first—sniffing each sample before it ever reached my bowl. But once I took that first bite, any hesitation vanished. The freshness was absolute, the texture perfectly preserved—a taste of the Pacific that could convert even the most skeptical diner.

Freshest Seafood for Sale at the Washou Market in Kushiro. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA
Freshest Seafood for Sale at the Washou Market in Kushiro. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA

It’s a hands-on, heart-warming experience that captures Kushiro’s coastal hospitality in one unforgettable bowl.

Robata-yaki – Fireside Dining

Kushiro is known as the birthplace of robata-yaki (炉端焼き)—rustic, fireside grilling that dates back to fishermen warming themselves after a long night at sea. Today, travellers gather around glowing charcoal hearths, choosing skewers of seafood and local vegetables grilled before their eyes.

An Irori BBQ Pit of Robata Restaurant in Kushiro. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA
An Irori BBQ Pit of Robata Restaurant in Kushiro. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA

As the sake flows and the laughter rises, robata-yaki becomes more than a meal—it’s a social ritual that brings locals and visitors together.

(Note: Most restaurants close early—often by 8:00 PM. In the later evening, some of the robata-yaki houses and Izakaya style restaurants are where the city truly comes alive until about 11:00pm or Midnight.)

Kushiro Ramen – Light, Warm, and Local

Teshikaga Ramen near Lake Mashu. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA
Teshikaga Ramen near Lake Mashu. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA

Every region of Hokkaido has its ramen story. Kushiro’s version is quietly elegant—a light, soy-based broth paired with thin, curly noodles. It’s the perfect antidote to misty weather: comforting, savory, and balanced.

Slip into one of the city’s hidden ramen shops, sit shoulder-to-shoulder with locals, and you’ll

understand why this humble bowl has become a symbol of warmth in Hokkaido’s cool east.

Kushiro Soba – Smooth, Delicate, and Green

An Oroshi Soba Buckwheat Noodles in Kushiro. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA
An Oroshi Soba Buckwheat Noodles in Kushiro. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA

Kushiro Soba is a regional treasure, celebrated for its pale green colour and smooth texture. Made with fine Sarashina buckwheat and enriched with chlorella, it’s as healthy as it is beautiful.

The tradition began over a century ago at Chikurouen Azumaya, and its craftsmanship continues today. Whether rolled into soba sushi, served in a savoury kashiwa-nuki broth, or simply dipped and slurped, Kushiro soba offers a refreshing taste of northern Japan’s artistry.

Autumn’s Treasure – Sanma, the Pacific’s Gift 

Perfectly Grilled Pair of Sanma the Local Autumn Delicacy. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA
Perfectly Grilled Pair of Sanma the Local Autumn Delicacy. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA

When autumn arrives, sanma (Pacific saury, 秋刀魚) takes center stage. Kushiro’s port lands some of Japan’s biggest catches, and the city celebrates with open-air festivals and streets fragrant with charcoal smoke. Grilled to perfection and served with grated daikon, sanma captures the essence of fall—rich, smoky, and fleeting. To taste sanma in Kushiro is to taste the season itself.

Sweetness of the North – Dairy and Confections

Incredibly Tasty Natural Ice Cream and other Milk Products from the Area. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA
Incredibly Tasty Natural Ice Cream and other Milk Products from the Area. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA

Eastern Hokkaido’s open pastures produce some of Japan’s finest dairy, and Kushiro turns that abundance into irresistible treats—creamy soft-serve ice cream, velvety yogurt, artisanal cheeses, and buttery sweets that melt in your mouth.

After the salt and smoke of the sea, these dairy confections are the perfect finale: soft, silky, and kissed by the cool northern air.

Ainu Kotan at Lake Akan – Heritage and Flavor

Typical Ainu Lunch Stew. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA
Typical Ainu Lunch Stew. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA

Just an hour inland lies Lake Akan (阿寒湖)—home to the Ainu Kotan, one of Hokkaido’s most vibrant Indigenous communities. Wooden streets brim with Ainu crafts, traditional dance echoes through the night, and the food tells ancient stories of harmony with nature.

Sample salmon grilled over open fire, venison stews, wild mountain greens like pukusa (giant wild garlic), and nut-based soups—each dish a living link to centuries of Ainu wisdom. For Canadians who cherish Indigenous culture, this encounter feels deeply familiar—and profoundly moving.

Akan-Mashu National Park – Lakes and Kaiseki

Shabu Shabu Kaiseki Dinner with Local Ingredients. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA
Shabu Shabu Kaiseki Dinner with Local Ingredients. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA

Lake Akan is part of Akan-Mashu National Park (阿寒摩周国立公園), a wonderland of volcanic lakes and pristine forests. Stay in a traditional onsen ryokan, where hot-spring baths and multi-course kaiseki dinners highlight freshwater fish, mountain vegetables, local pork, beef, chicken or wild game dishes, and even dishes inspired by the rare marimo moss balls that grow only here.

Between hot baths and fine dining, you’ll find the perfect balance of relaxation and refinement—the essence of Japanese hospitality.

Ainu Legendary Green Algae called Marimo of Lake Akan. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA
Ainu Legendary Green Algae called Marimo of Lake Akan. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA

Nemuro Peninsula – Crab, Sushi, and Eastern Horizons

Travel farther east to the Nemuro Peninsula (根室半島), where Japan greets the first sunrise. This rugged coastal region is a seafood paradise, famed for Hanasaki crab, rich sushi platters, and yet another beloved version of sanma. Nemuro’s autumn festival celebrates this fish with gusto, and sushi counters here boast some of the freshest, simplest, and most rewarding bites in Japan. For adventurous travelers, Nemuro extends Kushiro’s gourmet trail to the very edge of the Pacific.

Hanasaki Crab from Nemuro Area. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA
Hanasaki Crab from Nemuro Area. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA

Wetlands, Cranes, and Sake Pairings

Returning to Kushiro, the Kushiro Shitsugen National Park stretches out as Japan’s largest wetland, a sanctuary for the elegant, red-crowned cranes. After a day of hiking or birdwatching, travelers can wind down in the city with local sake, brewed with pure northern water and Hokkaido rice. Paired with freshly caught seafood in an izakaya, each sip feels like a toast to the land, the sea, and the air that defines eastern Hokkaido.

Most of the Premium Sake, like Ginjo or Daiginjo, have delicate aromas (fruity, floral) that are best preserved and highlighted at cooler temperatures, between 5 to 15 °C. Overheating these sake above 15 °C suppresses their fragrance and can make the alcohol taste harsh.

For some Sake connoisseurs, they would rather choose Junmai at a room temperature of around 20 °C. At this neutral temperature, sake expresses both its aroma and umami naturally and is ideal for tasting the brewer’s intended balance. In Kushiro, try its own Tokubetsu Junmai.

Enjoying Local Sake with the view of Kushiro Marshland Wilderness. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA
Enjoying Local Sake with the view of Kushiro Marshland Wilderness. Photo by Kei ARASHIYAMA

Honjōzō is a traditional style of Japanese sake that includes a small addition of distilled alcohol (brewer’s alcohol) during production to refine flavor, aroma, and texture. This type of sake can be consumed from chilled to warm. Different faces of the sake appear at each temperature level. One of the best Honjozo is called 14 dai-ginsen, loosely translated to 14th generation from Yamagata Prefecture. If you can find it, then it may be worth your while to experience its depth of taste. In Kushiro area, there are local Honjozo like Honjozo Karakuchi (dry) and Tsuru Honjozo (crane).

Here is my suggestion for dishes and sake pairing in the Kushiro region. If you are having seasonal seafood (sashimi, grilled fish), light tempura, or subtly seasoned dishes, then pair it with Honjozo Karakuchi that is served chilled between 5 to 15 °C in a chilled glass. If you are selecting slightly richer fare, like grilled or broiled seafood, light meat dishes (chicken yakitori with salt, grilled pork with simple seasoning), or Hokkaidō vegetables with butter, then pair it with Tokubetsu Junmai warmed to 40 to 45 °C. Heating enhances umami, softens acidity, and brings out deeper rice and koji flavors. However, going above 55 °C (131 °F) can destroy aroma and create bitterness. 

As with any wine over dinner, all sake must be sipped. In today’s Japanese culture, Kanpai does not mean emptying the glass.

Delicate Japanese Rolled Omelette Crowned with Glistening Salmon Roe by Kei ARASHIYAMA
Delicate Japanese Rolled Omelette Crowned with Glistening Salmon Roe by Kei ARASHIYAMA

An Invitation to the Eastern Shore

From the bustling Washo Market to the serene Ainu Kotan, from the smoky warmth of robata-yaki to Nemuro’s famed crab, Kushiro and its neighboring regions invite travelers to indulge all five senses. Here, mist meets flavor, culture meets cuisine, and every meal is an invitation to linger. Whether you come for the markets, the lakes, or the wetlands, one truth remains: Kushiro is more than a destination—it is truly Hokkaido’s Gourmet Paradise.

* Special thanks to Yuki Ono, Advisor for Adventure Travel Promotion, Kushiro City, and Athena Ho, Director of JNTO Toronto, whose insights and generous assistance greatly enriched this feature. Gratitude is also extended to the many kind individuals and local institutions whose warm hospitality allowed me to experience the distinctive cultures and flavors of the region.

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