What is a Canadian Hug? It’s the warm embrace of rye whisky going down smooth and slow. At JP Wiser’s we tour and taste the spirit of Canada.
Just along the river in Walkerville—the namesake of Hiram Walker, founder of Canadian Club—we savour our patriotism with each sip. The J.P. Wiser's 18-year-old Canadian Whisky reminds me of an early morning walk along a dewy path somewhere deep in the forest of Algonquin. Master Blender, Dr. Don Livermore leads a Whisky Blending Class in the J.P. Wiser's Experience Centre where we learn about Canadian whisky, how it’s made, and how to blend our own custom-whisky. This is the spirit of Canada.
Wolfhead Distillery is Ontario’s only craft distillery with a restaurant attached. Here we sample premium whisky made with cane sugar and vanilla extract for a rich honeyed essence with a clean finish. Apple Caramel Whisky is like drinking a buttery caramelized crisp apple, while the Coffee Whisky, made with Costa Rican coffee beans, has been generating a lot of buzz for its vanilla and toffee notes with subtle spice. In the heart of Essex County, this kitchen infuses its spirits into every lip-smacking bite of slow-roasted pulled pork with whisky-infused bbq sauce or whisky infused Maple Bacon Burger. This has become the go-to spot for Parking Lot parties and outdoor live music.
What county lies south of Detroit? Canada. We’re due south of Detroit, without crossing the border in one of the warmest parts of the country. The water tower in Leamington is shaped like a tomato, because this is the tomato capital of Canada. There are more greenhouses here than anywhere else in North America. Ornithologists flock to Point Pelee National Park in Leamington to view the Atlantic and Mississippi migratory bird flyways.
In nearby Kingsville, Dutch Boys Chocolate hand-casts dark chocolate medallions with accurate depictions of many of the unique animals found at Point Pelee Park. Their basswood-carved birds from the migration flyway are molded in chocolate for the sweetest souvenirs of the region. The Grove Hotel encourages us to “Stay Weird.” It’s an uber-hip restored hotel with décor that makes us want to peer around every corner.
Each suite has its own unique charm. Locals who want to geek out on a really good coffee convene at the adjacent joe. Hot + Cold, where we snack on a roasted peach with gooey brie cheese sandwiched within rosemary focaccia. Within a few blocks of each other are three local craft breweries of the Barrels Bottles & Brews Trail: Kingsville Brewery, Banded Goose Brewing Co., The Grove Brewing Company, and the best way to experience them is with a Flight Log Passport that enables flight tastings at each location.
The cluster of Lake Erie North Shore wineries emerging from Essex County’s EPIC Wine Country produces world class wines. Cab Franc is the signature grape. A sublime selection from Viewpointe Estate Winery includes the beautiful phenolic ripeness of Focal Point, and the deep plum-y nose and chewy palate of blackberries, cherries and cassis of Colchester Cuvee. On the patio, mere feet from the bluff above the lake, a basket of perch, dusted in a light crunch, is textbook perfect and pairs swimmingly with the balanced stone fruit and tropical acidity of an Auxerrois. Oxley Estate Winery offers tantalizing sticky duck wings with honey, sugared chilis and szechuan vinaigrette. These crispy, sticky morsels
of umami are paired with a fragrant, vibrant Wowza blend of Bianca, Geisenheim and Hibernal that envelopes the heat and cuts the sweetness of the wings.
Anywhere you slice it, pizza in Windsor-Essex is delicious. At the family-run Muscedre Vineyards, a wood-fired pizza oven sits under a gazebo between the vineyard and the back of their house. Basil proliferates. Each wine deserves a pizza. Tasting rosé in the vineyards requires a thin crust with tomato sauce, onions, Italian sausage, mozzarella and peppers. Cooper’s Hawk Vineyards is calming and inviting for families. Strolling on fields and hills makes us forget where we are.
At their Vines Restaurant, wild mushroom focaccia, brushed with lemon basil pesto, sundried tomatoes, bocconcini and a drizzle of truffle oil is a delectable crunch to pair with their truly Canadian wine, Heritage, which blends three new local Harrow Grape varietals, and is aged in Canadian Oak for a full-bodied fruit with a hint of spice. A playful white wine blend of Auxerrois, Chardonnay, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc, Mantra is bright and lively with expressive lemon-lime notes, honeyed fruit and a touch of minerality.
The range of wines at Sprucewood Shores Estate Winery is fresh and exuberant, but what is truly unique is pairing it with a basket of charcuterie and local cheese on the beach! With toes in the sand, I look to my right to see gentle waves of Lake Erie rolling up, and to my left, the vineyards I just walked through. Lady In Red is an aromatic bouquet with soft lush tannins. The Riesling is crisp and citric with a balanced and refreshing essence of green apple.
Between the water and the wine, Lungovita, provides a wellness retreat along the shoreline. Our Geodesic Dome and bonfire pit overlooking the river makes us feel a world away. Minutes from the wineries by bicycle, we alternate between wine tastings, yoga sessions and cedar barrel saunas on the beach.
For a quick island getaway, we board Pelee Island Ferries to reach Canada’s southernmost point. Songbirds and monarch butterflies flutter above vineyards, wetlands sand dunes, and sandy beaches. This is southern hospitality Ontario-style: the warm embrace of quiet nature.