Cuisine of Malta: A Citadel of Intrigue

The mystique of Maltese cuisine and culture has everyone suddenly excited about visiting Malta
Valletta. Photo Courtesy of Malta Tourism Authority
Valletta. Photo Courtesy of Malta Tourism Authority
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5 min read

There are three hundred days a year of beautiful sunshine on these islands in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea. 

Malta is home to the most remarkable concentration of intact-built heritage sites, including the highest density of UNESCO Heritage sites. We can imagine losing ourselves in 8,000 years of the oldest free-standing stone architecture in the world from ancient, medieval and early modern periods.

Chef Hiram Cassar (Malta) and Chef Patrick Kriss (Toronto). Photo by George Pimentel Photography.
Chef Hiram Cassar (Malta) and Chef Patrick Kriss (Toronto). Photo by George Pimentel Photography.

I was recently introduced to the delicious flavours of the Maltese Islands at a Michelin Four Hands Dinner, a collaborative dining experience where Michelin-starred chefs Hiram Cassar (Malta) and Patrick Kriss (Canada) teamed up to showcase their combined culinary styles, utilizing ingredients and wines from their respective countries. 

The menu was a fine introduction to Malta's rising profile as a culinary destination, it began with Hokkaido scallop and sea urchin, zucchini blossom, corn, and a generous spoonful of Petrossian Caviar. Alo Private Label Sparkling Wine was the perfect, easy-going pairing for this delicate dish.  

Hokkaido scallop and sea urchin, zucchini blossom, corn, and a generous spoonful of Petrossian Caviar at Salon in Yorkville. Photo by George Pimentel Photography.
Hokkaido scallop and sea urchin, zucchini blossom, corn, and a generous spoonful of Petrossian Caviar at Salon in Yorkville. Photo by George Pimentel Photography.

The next offering was bluefin tuna crudo with pretty little tomatoes (peeled, of course) with local Bidnija Malta EVOO. I was curious to taste a spoonful of this unique Malta olive oil and was surprised by its lovely fresh flavour and non-oily, light texture. An oceanic dish enhanced by traditional fruit of the land appeals to my poetic side.

Local products are gaining international recognition. The Maltese gbejna tan-nagħaġ, for example, is the traditional sheep's milk cheese and is the first Maltese product to receive the PDO status (Protected Designation of Origin) placing it alongside Parmigiano Reggiano and Feta.  

Pekorin Agnolotti. Pasta with Pecorino, pine nuts and Citrus Mostarda. Photo by George Pimentel Photography.
Pekorin Agnolotti. Pasta with Pecorino, pine nuts and Citrus Mostarda. Photo by George Pimentel Photography.

In the Mediterranean tradition, the small middle course of pasta is Pekorin Agnolotti. Perfectly sculpted, light pasta morsels hold a small trove of Pecorino cheese, textured with a sprinkling of pine nuts and bathed in Citrus Mostarda. This dish alone begins to pique my desire to travel to Malta. The pairing of Ta Betta "Jean Parisott" Chardonnay adds to the taste experience. Maltese food-culture weaves centuries of Mediterranean heritage into its contemporary restaurant scene.   

"This collaboration is a window into Malta's vibrant culinary arena that is grounded in a farming and fishing ecosystem that champions regenerative practices.  It combines local flavours with modern techniques, and is a way to invite Canadians to discover what they can experience in terms of Maltese gastronomy, wine and our way of life", says Carlo Micallef, CEO, Malta Tourism Authority.

Red sea bream, leek, Maltese lemon and kombu, and set on a splash of Bone Jus. Photo by George Pimentel Photography.
Red sea bream, leek, Maltese lemon and kombu, and set on a splash of Bone Jus. Photo by George Pimentel Photography.

Red sea bream has been lifted from the heat source at the exact second of perfection and retained all the texture and flavour nuances of the fish that are sadly, so often over-cooked. Dressed for success with a sprinkle of capers, leek, Maltese lemon and kombu, and set on a splash of Bone Jus; it is a lovely way to present fish. A luscious surprise veering from the traditional, the wine pairing is red Meridiana "Nexus" Merlot. But don't look for wine from Malta at our LCBO. Today, 12 wine estates produce only 1.5 million bottles which allows for limited export from a country where drinking wine is a way of life. 

A3 Wagyu, wasabi, shitake mushrooms and umeboshi. Photo by George Pimentel Photography.
A3 Wagyu, wasabi, shitake mushrooms and umeboshi. Photo by George Pimentel Photography.

Through the kitchen's large glass window, I admire the intensity of the chefs and crew as they meticulously plate our next course, as if they are aware of our anticipation. Chefs Carras and Kriss are focussed on the exact presentation of each plate. 

Sheer perfection. An oval filet of A3 Wagyu, with a glaze that hints of Wasabi, comes partnered with a clutch of shitake mushrooms and umeboshi. The beauty of A3, rather than A5, is that we could enjoy a less fatty, more robust steak. A wine well deserving of this culinary tour de force is Pearl Morissette, "Madeline" Cabernet Franc.

Michelle Buttigieg, Representative for North America Malta Tourism Authority with Dame of Malta, Sara Waxman. Photo by George Pimentel Photography.
Michelle Buttigieg, Representative for North America Malta Tourism Authority with Dame of Malta, Sara Waxman. Photo by George Pimentel Photography.

Michelle Buttigieg, Representative for North America Malta Tourism Authority introduces Chef Cassar, head chef at Fernando Gastrotheque, a Michelin starred fine dining restaurant in Malta known for its seasonal, ingredient-driven cuisine. Chef Cassar brings a refined approach that blends Maltese tradition with global technique. I plan to have a conversation with the Chef about the cuisine of Malta and his role within the industry. But first, dessert.

Light and lush, a melange of raspberry chantilly, pistachio and meringue floats off the plate and lands in my mouth. A few sips of Tawse Cabernet Franc Icewine serve as a fitting end to this culinary tableau. 

Raspberry chantilly, pistachio and meringue . Photo by George Pimentel Photography.
Raspberry chantilly, pistachio and meringue . Photo by George Pimentel Photography.

"Tell me about the personality of Maltese cuisine," I ask Chef Cassar, and initially, I get a history lesson. "We were a colony of the United Kingdom, and I believe a lot of our heritage was lost during that time." Today, of course, the food scene in the UK is excellent. He continues, "We always had a strong Arab influence, Phoenician, Middle Eastern, French, Italian, so we borrowed a lot of things from all those people who conquered us. So, our cuisine is kind of a mixing pot where you find spices in the sweets and our own cheeses and peas wrapped in flaky pastry." He speaks of the cuisine of his country with enthusiasm, and describes the ancient Cathedral of St. John in Valletta with passion.

Arthur Grima, His Excellency Mark Pace, Dame of Malta, Sara Waxman, Mario Buttigieg. Photo by George Pimentel Photography.
Arthur Grima, His Excellency Mark Pace, Dame of Malta, Sara Waxman, Mario Buttigieg. Photo by George Pimentel Photography.

This evening's events at Salon in Yorkville have inspired my wanderlust to visit this historic archipelago for myself.

For more information on Malta go to: www.visitmalta.com/en

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