It was back in 1982 when Peter Eliopolis established Peter & Pauls Hospitality Group, a company based on the best of the best, with a product brand label of “My Mother's.” The olives, packed in a glass jar of olive oil, are divine. The olive oil is everything I expected, and these icons of Greece confirm the taste of excellence. Successive gift products, food-related events, catering and restaurants followed. Which brings us to today.
Petros 82 is an outpost of the Greek island of Mykonos in an outer wing of the Pan Pacific Toronto Hotel. It opened at the end of May with a fabulous party filled with great food and wine, music and smiles on every face. We couldn't wait to return. On one side is a chic spacious bar and lounge, and on the other, the white-washed colonnaded dining room. We're seated under a ceiling of pin-dot lights that mimic a starry sky and prepare to enjoy a Mediterranean/Greek feast.
We admire the specialty of the house, the Fresh Seafood Market display of Mediterranean fish on crushed ice waiting to be chosen (I'd swear that red snapper winked at me). Our table is set adjoining the glass sliding doors to the terrace which seems to be surrounded by a forest. A racoon explores the terrace, giving the place a virtual thumbs up. The menu is actually endearing with sections like "Comfort Foods" and "Great for Sharing". Dishes are marked with symbols for Chef's Signature, GF: Gluten Free, VE: Vegan, V: Vegetarian. With the mind-bending task of decision-making ahead of us, we enjoy cocktails, Petros Focaccia and "My Mother's Olives."
The buzz of conversation and laughter fills the room as groups of diners arrive for dinner. We're all enjoying the ambiance and the dishes presented to us. But no one enjoys as much as the beautiful romantic couple at a banquet facing me. They are also enjoying their kisses and embraces, their food and wine, and just being alive. I'll have what they're having!
We begin with a kale salad, which is a generous bowl of kale bedazzled with fresh pink figs, pomegranate seeds, green onions, feta, olives, hemp and pumpkin seed crumble, all tossed in Greek vinaigrette. Refreshing and unusual, this bowl packs a welcome punch of goodness.
From the Petros Favorites section of the menu, we are intrigued by the Pringles. Wafer thin crisps of zucchini and eggplant are adorned with a crumble of Kefalograviera cheese…. but the slices could be a little thinner and crisper before they could earn the name Pringles. The Feta Fournou is wrapped in phyllo pastry and baked to toasty goodness. Lacquered in lavender honey, and sprinkled with thyme and flower petals, it is a pretty harmony of sweet from the honey and salt from the feta, whose creaminess is contrasted by the baked phyllo wrap.
And now we are looking forward to some classic Greek dishes.
We order Saganaki for the show. Alas it is a no-show. Where is the tableside flambee? Where is the Opa? Simply a wedge of baked Haloumi cheese accompanied by Focaccia. The cheese is tangy and crunchy, but we miss the performative aspect of the dish. Moussaka is a traditional recipe set in stone. Here it seems more akin to a Shepherd's Pie, rather than layers of eggplant, beef, potato and bechamel. We're served an individual-sized bubbling pot of slow cooked short rib, small diced potato and eggplant and a crumbling of feta cheese. Warm and hearty, this is a savoury rendition to share, but a divergence from the classic that one might expect.
Here, the chef comes out of the kitchen, sets our fish on the table, cuts and serves. He and the staff are enthusiastic and genuinely interested in our reactions to the dishes they so proudly place before us. The branzino is what we selected moments earlier from the seafood display. It is plump with herbs, and with a hint of charcoal from the grill, is enlivened by Greek olive oil, a splash of lemon. This is the essence of the Mediterranean, and pairs beautifully with a Sauvignon Blanc. Grilled lamb chops are a highlight. Lavished in olive oil, these succulent chops are so tender and lip-smacking delicious, and share the plate with Ladolemono, a clutch of Horta (mountain top greens) and a scattering of My Mother’s olives.
I enthusiastically request Baklava for dessert. I love the crunch of walnuts or pistachios or both, spread in layers of crisp pastry and honey. Oh dear, something has befallen my favorite Greek dessert. It comes as a moist, dense and heavy slice with nary a crunch. A saving grace is the rich vanilla ice cream, served a la mode.
While there are some excellent dishes here, the traditional dishes do not meet our expectations of classic Greek cuisine, that, when prepared simply and without pretense, are so enjoyable. You can’t reinvent the wheel, because then it’s not all Greek to me.
Petros 82 tells a story rooted in Greek hospitality and heritage. Don't expect a formal dining experience and mannered service. Bouzouki Night on Fridays promises to be a blast. And there is a gift waiting for guests that is quite rare in Toronto: parking is free.
Petros 82 - 416-488-3234 - 900 York Mills Road, North York