There comes a moment in our hectic lives when an extraordinary person breaks through our blind devotion to electronics, taps us on the shoulder and says, "Hey!" This calls for action before the opportunity is lost. We want to sit across a table in comfort, look into each other's eyes and talk. Yes. Talk. We do not want to shout over music in the danger-to-your-hearing-decibel and say "Pardon me" and "Sorry, I didn't catch that" a hundred times during the evening. We want lovely luscious cocktails and over-the-moon delectable bites in a classic lounge ambiance. Or maybe we can sit at the bar and enjoy a glass of bubbly. We need some place more than guys in baseball caps at the bar on the corner. And here we are. Tucked into the side pocket of Michelin-starred Enigma Yorkville on posh St. Thomas St, just off Bloor, is the newly opened Enigma Lounge.
Understated exquisite good taste, decor that does not compete for attention and music as background to conversation. I lean back in my comfortable chair, smile, order a Golden Hour cocktail, and make a toast to friendship. The fresh citrus smoothness of this Gin cocktail suits the mood.
Our server is on our side, and offers informative descriptions of esoteric menu items in a non-patronizing manner that makes us feel that we know almost as much as Michelin star Chef Quinton Bennett. He has taken gastronomy to an art form and his menu leads us through a gallery of visual and palate pleasing "small bite" experiences.
We order with aplomb.
A steamed bao bun couches mushroom duxelles in its centre, and wears a jaunty cap of wagyu beef tartar with a shitake powder and truffle emulsion. Its a delectable confluence of earthy flavours and silky textures. An artful morsel from the Chef’s palette to our palate.
Foie gras torchon is enhanced with a touch of pickled kelp and garlic chives with a surprise element of a hot dashi pour-over from a crystal teapot. Perhaps in some societies, one might use a spoon, but I just drink the luscious broth right from the bowl. It seems appropriate.
Now, appetites sharpened and a glass of wine ordered, we crave more delectables from the menu.
A large seared Hokkaido scallop, accessorized with grape, fermented daikon, a dollop of Oscietra caviar creme, laced with a drizzle of black currant leaf oil reveals that a master composer has created a sinfonietta in a small plate.
Barbecued capocollo is oh so tender. This is a beautiful pork shoulder. Savoury, and perfectly paired with a sweet quince jam, house made sauerkraut and pickled heirloom carrots, it hits all the notes and is prepared with sublime finesse.
Shall we see if there is room in the main dining room for dinner? We make the decision to remain right where we are and enjoy a selection of these "small bite" creations. Ontario Lamb Shoulder with onion textures is encased in delicate pastry, and affords me three luscious bites, which are bolstered by a little side dish of a Dauphinois potato, sliced, stacked and enrobed in Gruyere cheese.
It's not a complete story without a sweet ending. The mixologist behind the bar makes an excellent Americano which is a perfect match for a luscious confection of kiwi sorbet with lime zest and vanilla Chantilly cream crowned with a honey tuile and apple gel. (With kind consideration for my lactose intolerance, they've substituted a puff of whipped coconut cream to this lovely dessert.)
Now comes the grand finale to our evening. Pastry Chef extraordinaire, Sarah Tsai, brings forward a tea trolley with a selection of petit fours that include salted vanilla fudge, hibiscus gummy candy, a jam jam cookie of raspberry jam, matcha and sorghum canelé, an After Eight mint dark chocolate bon bon and, my favorite, pistachio and rhubarb financier. Each one, a work of art, makes a perfect pairing with a decaf nitro coffee, infused with cardamom and rose water.
Appetites curbed. Should we stay or should we go now? We're still in mid-conversation: world peace, upcoming travels and of course, romance. Perhaps we'll linger a little longer over another cocktail.
For more info: enigmayorkville.com, 23 St. Thomas St, 416-323-3332