It’s the most fabulous of all birds. The blue bird-of-paradise is renowned for its extravagance, and not to be confused with the mythological bluebird of happiness or the blue songbirds of Southern Ontario, but the sum of their parts on Ontario Street is a charming restaurant with dishes of culinary plumage that sing of the seasons with good cheer.
A motto of Chef Aaron Linley is to “live deliciously.” Together with his wife and partner Bronwyn Linley, who seamlessly manages the front of house, this honest and good-natured duo have enriched the palates of Stratford across kitchens from Rundles to the Stratford Chefs School, to their culinary jewel, Bijou, to being the opening chefs at The Bruce Hotel, and now to the feel-good talk-of-the-town, Bluebird.
I’m late to the party. Everyone I know has already enjoyed dining here several times and are stunned at my negligence. Tonight is the night. With my intrepid son in tow, we sidle up to a high top in the midst of a spritely summer rush of smiles and cocktails.
My Pretty in Pink cocktail of grapefruit, orange and cranberry is a lively splash of citrus whipped into smooth frothiness with a sprinkling of dried rose pedals—a refreshing prelude to the flavour-forward menu to come.
You can’t go wrong with this menu. It is inspired, fun and refined (and best read with someone who will let you share a taste of their dish.)
Chilled Pea Soup is a vibrant and luxurious ladling of fresh summer peas with an herbaceous accent of chives and tarragon and a light crunch of pistachio. (A jewel of Bluebird’s off-season menu is the Parmesan Soup. It is exactly as one would hope. The rich, sharp, complex notes of parmesan blended into a smooth and creamy bowl with a tangy parmesan wedge, a crunch of croutons and macadamia nuts, and a fresh scattering of green peas, all make my taste buds dance.)
The Crispy Potato Mille Feuille does not escape our eyes. This impossible-to-resist “thousand layers” of thinly crisped potato does not disappoint. Each pop-in-your-mouth crunchy cube is elevated by the textures of creamy labneh and delicate tobiko. Be forewarned: these are addictive.
We can’t help hearing the “oohs and ahhs” as culinary works of art are whisked past to surrounding tables, and we want everything we see: shrimp and jicama tacos, Korean chili-glazed pork, a colossal grilled veal chop, and more! We select a taste of Ontario from land and lake.
The Perch is perfectly crisped and tender. It is such a delicate fish and, in the right hands of a kitchen that cares, a rewarding confluence of a thin crunch enveloping a mildly sweet meat. An accompanying sauté of broccoli, broiled to a smoky char, with mushrooms in an umami-rich XO sauce, is topped with a handful of lightly salted Jerusalem artichoke chips. It’s just the right portion and with its artful medley of textures, is so satisfying.
Chef Linley is a virtuoso. His menu changes throughout the season, but certain staples remain with evolving components. His Grilled Ontario Lamb is a generous composition of three meaty chops, trimmed beautifully, and lightly seasoned to elicit the optimal flavour of the lamb. There is a hint of sweetness and spice to accent this tender and juicy protein that crowns a warm salad of Israeli couscous and cherry tomatoes that are lip-smackingly wholesome and delicious.
For our sweet ending, the Passion Fruit Crème Brûlée looks gorgeous. The Sticky Toffee Pudding is apparently a crowd-pleaser, and indeed it is a densely and sweet spongy cake with a refreshing, velvety scoop of sour cream ice cream. But, the pièce de résistance is a cocktail glass of chocolate mousse sprinkled with Maldon salt and drizzled with an olive oil pour-over. This is so voluptuously rich that one luscious spoonful and I am down for the count. It’s the perfect blend of sweet and salt, but the addition of the milky smooth oil with a hint of pungency enlivens it to another level.
It appears that Bluebird is the place to be. A Cheers type of vibe permeates the room as familiar faces stop to greet each other in the dining room and out on the patio while the revelry continues through the night. The bluebird is a symbol of positivity and renewal, which is exactly the ambience and feeling that this Bluebird provides.
