Open any restaurant door in Toronto’s Little Italy and feel the heart-beat of inspirational Italian cooking. New and old restaurants alike, stand guard as the keepers of the flame of traditional Italian dishes. It’s a labour of love. A year ago, a new Toronto restaurant, Contrada, invited us in to taste a cuisine that does not echo classical Italian dishes, but offers a menu of authentically Toronto-elevated-casual fare.
Now, a year later, at 6:00 on a Friday night, the “joint is jumpin,” and every table in the dining room in the rear and the front room is filled, including seats at the bar. There is an aura of conviviality in the room, from the initial warm greeting at the entrance, to the genuine friendly attitude of servers and staff. Subdued lighting adds an air of coziness.
While Adam, one of my favorite dining partners, enjoys a sprightly non-alcoholic Pom-Odoro (he’s driving) of pomegranate, sumac, tomato, lemon and tonic, I sip a complex Ang Padrino cocktail (Dewars blended scotch, amaretto, marsala, fermented mango, pandan, peated scotch, absinthe) garnished with an amarena cherry. Mixology brilliance.
While savouring this exotic blend, I close my eyes for a moment and listen to the ambiance. The pleasing hum of social intercourse accompanied by a low-decibel musical backdrop creates the kind of easy-going mood that has become rare in this city.
So, what’s cooking at Contrada? The backbone of this menu is the imagination of the kitchen. Lamb croquettes have lots of crunch appeal that gives way to braised Ontario lamb, and sits on a dollop of luscious caponata. Interesting that these flavours are a perfect pairing with my Ang Padrino cocktail. When was the last time you saw Sweetbreads on a menu here-abouts. They’ve been braised in a rich and savoury sauce of wild mushrooms and Marsala wine. The sweetbreads are tender and meaty, with a thin layer of fried crunch lavished in the earthy, umami-laden sauce.
Doppio means two kinds of Ravioli: chicken liver, mascarpone, aged balsamic, and the other half savory, creamy pumpkin. A generous sprinkle of roasted pumpkin seeds add crunch to the dish, and a good guess is that they came from the pumpkin in the ravioli. It’s clear that this pasta dish has been made by loving hands in the kitchen. Alas, with a shade of love too rushed. Two more minutes of cooking time would have eliminated the remaining rawness of the pasta. Still, we forgive, because of delectable flavour and presentation, and you can be sure, not even one ravioli went uneaten.
We marvel at the original presentation of a whole European sea bass. It’s been butterflied, fileted, and glazed in a reduction of blood orange, enriched with a dash of beurre blanc. A delectable addition here, is the thin layering of sculpted, grilled cabbage leaves over the fish. And a clever cook has left the spine in the fish, so sharing is easy.
When there is Olive Oil Cake on the menu, it’s an offer I can’t refuse. This scrumptious cake, flavoured with EVOO and a hint of lemon comes topped with creme fraiche that’s teased by a few grains of Maldon salt crystals. A perfect pair with an espresso.
We are so impressed by the warmth and seamless efficiency of the team of servers. Patrick Groves, Jessie Mak and Mike Viera have corralled their imagination, passion and love to create Contrada in historic Little Italy. They are proud to be listed by Air Canada as one of Canada’s Best New Restaurants in 2024.
Contrada, 537 College St, Toronto, (416) 519-3455
