It seems appropriate that Antonio Park, set atop the Manulife Center, is hidden from plain sight, in a separate world from the busy mall, high above the streets below. To find this hip Toronto restaurant, take the escalator up, walk along a corridor past the Cineplex toward a lovely receptionist who awaits with a glass of Sake. From here, step into a bright red elevator and be whisked up to the 51st floor. Trust me. It’s worth the trip.
We’re seated at a window table at the south-facing terrace as it glistens in the light snow, and frames the twinkling Toronto skyline. Looking out at the skyline, after having not been here in over twenty years, since it was Panorama, it still feels like the best space in Toronto. It’s romantic, comfortable and has the best views.
On this Thursday evening, young women are dressed to the nines and looking like tens in strapless cocktail wear and flowing chiffon. No torn jeans or sweats here. Apparently, Antonio Park means a serious dinner date. And yet, at this early part of the dinner hour, there are multi-generational families arriving as well.
My cocktail is called Seoulstice. With its floral bouquet, this is a smooth blend of Bulleit Rye, Drambuie, Pandan Syrup, lemon grass bitters and cinnamon. Served in a ceramic cup, it sits on a sake box of smoky liquid nitrogen pouring out like a bubbling cauldron.
Our first dish, the Park Slaw, is the most delicious salad in Toronto. The chef has re-imagined what a salad can be, beyond the humdrum of a bowl of greens. It’s a refreshing and colourful medley of crunchy veggies and nuts. Each bite reveals a different ingredient, and each ingredient maintains its own integrity for a spritely confluence of textures. The vinegar in the slaw is balanced with the sweetness of the mango and carrot, and it’s all very tasty.
Wagyu Tacos are delicious. Australian wagyu beef is lacquered in a zesty bibimbap glaze. There is such a tangy flavour profile from the gochujang, garlic, sugar and vinegar. It is accented with the jalapeno in the aji verde that gives more ammo to the spritely kick within the delectable crunch of the deep fried gyoza shell. I could order these by the dozen and be very happy.
This is quite a dynamic menu that reflects the chef’s global palate and experience. It’s one of those menus in which you can really go in any order, and it doesn’t matter which dish arrives first.
There is a high flavour quotient, and the range of globally-inspired ingredients and flavours, and their pairings with our cocktails, has turned our table top into quite a colourful palette.
Park’s cuisine has a Japanese-focus that includes pan-Asian and South American flavours. “I’m Korean,” says Park, “while I dream in Spanish, I have Kimchi in my blood.” He was born in Argentina and grew up in Paraguay and Brazil. “These are the cultures and flavours of my life.”
The Omakase Nigiri arrives and we can see this is no lunch-counter sushi; this is like a string of polished jewels. The strip jack is plump and firm; the madai (sea bream) is mildly sweet and unctuous. It has a delicate crunch and hint of woodiness from the peppercorns on top. The uni, brushed with a carrot puree and rolled in nori, is like a gift-wrapped essence of Hokkaido. Soft and sweet, it is the foie gras of the sea.
The most important element in sushi is the rice. The rice at Antonio Park is sourced from Hokkaido. This brand of rice is prized in Japan. It is harvested in a region caked in many feet of pristine snow that melts over time into the purest water that nourishes these beautiful pearls to a natural sweetness and high nutritional value.
The soy sauce is blended with kombu and bonito flakes for a more pleasing taste than a typical high sodium condiment. When dipping the nigiri into soy sauce, it is important to turn the sushi upside down, so that the fish receives a delicate touch, rather than the sauce being absorbed by the rice and completely changing the complexion of the sushi, which is already sublime. I could order a bowl of this rice, and call it a night.
Silky slices of King Salmon, crowned with pickled serrano peppers and crispy shallots, luxuriate in a richness of jalapeno-accented ponzu and herb oil.
We’re intrigued by the Roasted Lamb with wagyu, chimichurri, sauteed greens, crispy garlic and lemon. It looks great on the menu, but I tend to be cynical when I see “wagyu” in a dish that is anything other than steak, or in which the wagyu is not the star ingredient. It may seem de rigueur to incorporate this luxury-item for more cachet, but it’s like adding superfluous bling to a dish that wouldn’t otherwise need it. As it turns out, these stamp-sized pieces of wagyu don’t do anything for the lamb chops which, themselves, are very thin. I also feel the lamb is overpowered by the chimichurri and lemon, which is more sour than bright and herbaceous. It does not even stand up to the side dish of kimchi rice. The list of ingredients in this dish is more impressive than their combination, which does not taste balanced. For me, the accompanying gai lan, sauteed in garlic, is the most delicious element on the plate — simple and perfect.
Kimchi Rice starts with delicious rice. Then, add to it a nourishing heat from the kimchi, creaminess of the soy-cured egg and umami from the braised mushrooms. It’s not acidic or aggressive, and the black bean adds a sweet texture for more nuance and savoury flavour. We’re enjoying this, and as with many of these dishes, it invites another cocktail. One Miss Kiyoka cocktail of Hendricks Gin, yuzu, passion fruit, cane sugar and egg whites is smooth, frothy ambrosia.
A restaurant is much more than a talented Chef in the kitchen. Front-of-the-house has enormous responsibility. Analysts say you might not remember what you ate, but you will always remember how they made you feel. David Kipis and Sean Baillie are masters in the art of seeing-all, hearing-all and keeping things running smoothly and with conviviality.
Our server is so effervescent and charming. She is as enthusiastic about what we’re ordering as we are. She is excited to know how we like it, and happy that we do.
Desserts are a seduction of flavours. Lemon Yuzu Blueberry is a tantalizing lemon cake with lemon yuzu cream, topped by pink peppercorn meringue, and embraced by a honey yogurt and an oval of blueberry sorbet. The favourite flavours of my life include chocolate. Here, it is offered as Tout Chocolate—a brownie-base layered with salted caramel, chocolate mousse, chocolate sorbet and, for added texture, pecans and almonds. A sweet symphony for this evening’s coda. In all, a flavour-forward menu sourced from the imagination of a globally-inspired chef at the top of Toronto.
Antonio Park, Manulife Centre, 51st Floor, 416-967-0000
