Las Vegas is the ultimate temptress. One roll of the dice is just not enough. Imagine your ideal fun, apply a defibrillator to it, set that to the highest voltage, and there you have the Entertainment Capital of the World. People say, “What happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas,” but what that really means is: there is nowhere else like it on Earth, and if you want it, you’ve got to go there to get it. Las Vegas attracts the best of the best to provide the most excitement possible in arts and gastronomy that amazes and beckons our return.
“Here we are now, entertain us!” From the moment of disembarkation at Harry Reid International Airport, we feel anticipation and expectation, soon to be met and exceeded. Arriving at the Fontainebleau Las Vegas, we’re greeted by 6,000 fresh cut roses, sourced from California to Columbia. The palatial lobby opens into a promenade of the highest-end shops from 5th Ave to Rodeo Drive. Casinos add lights, colour and action, but they’re no longer the gravity wells of the past, as each hotel has developed its own unique, dynamic village of attractions such that, word of a trip to Vegas is followed by the inevitable question, “Where are you staying?”
Fontainebleau is the new kid on the block, opened in ‘23, and perfectly situated for easy access to either end of the strip. Iconic bow-ties adorn almost every surface from tiles to chandeliers. It is grand, ornate, maintains an art deco feel from the original Miami architecture, but breathes fresh new life around every corner.
Works of art like the massive golden sculpture, called Lovers, or the interactive kinetic sculpture, Oceans, that mimics tides and oceans around the world, imbue the halls with grandeur. There’s a Hall of Excellence showcasing legendary sports memorabilia, including Tom Brady’s Superbowl rings; a plush 1000-seat theatre which, on this night, hosts Pitbull; fitness and spa facilities; patisseries; restaurants by star chefs like Chef Gabriela Cámara, Chef Evan Funke, and acclaimed restaurateur Alan Yau; and the hospitality here covers all the bases with its exclusive, NutriDrip IV Drip Lounge for guests to rejuvenate and keep up their pace.
Every hotel, every casino, is equipped with a steak house. Don’s Prime within the Fontainebleau is a superlative example of why that is. The menu feels like a roulette wheel in which every bet is a winner. Classic, elevated, sophisticated; the hospitality is professional and warm. Our server presents a board of wagyu steaks. She knows what she’s talking about, and presents each one with care and pride. She is our guide, and we are happily in her hands. Complimentary Black Pepper Parmesan Bread is a beautifully knotted confection of warm soft dough and, accompanied by a freshly baked pretzel topped with brown butter, sets the high bar for what’s to come.
The most delicious salads are at steak houses. Don’s Chopped Salad is exceptional. A tightly packed column of chopped lettuce and celery is adorned with chickpeas that never had it so good, jewels of cucumber and tomato, wedges of avocado and artichoke, are all crowned with a thin stack of crisp potato straws. It’s the most refreshing and delicious salad I’ve ever committed to memory.
Striploin, medium rare, beautifully seasoned, with perfect char and caramelization, holds court for an accompanying king oyster mushroom. A side of creamed corn is a rich and seductive assemblage of lightly toasted corn luxuriating in melty Manchego with a kick of jalapeño, punctuated with savoury honeyed-bacon, thickly cut into cubes, and crunchy corn bread. The contrast of textures hits all the right notes. From across the room, the sommelier senses my indecision while reading the fifty-page wine menu, and shares his suggestion to pair with my order: 2019 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon from Alexander Valley, California. Its beautiful bouquet and sweet, soft tannins create a voluptuous, plummy mouthfeel of cassis, blackberry, brown sugar and caramel that is simply sublime.
More than a mic drop, the tableside service of whipped chocolate mousse with shaved chocolate, brandied cherries and diplomat cream, leaves me down for the count. It’s the height of decadence—but if that’s not enough, a pairing with 20-year-old Kopke Tawny Port is so divine, I have to just cancel the rest of my evening and indulge in the satisfaction and gratitude of my palate right now. I could keep eating, but, when in Vegas, “You gotta know when to fold’em”.
Stepping into the carnival atmosphere of Swingers at the Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino is like leaving Las Vegas and entering a soirée straight out of the Great Gatsby. The joie de vivre is palpable. We quickly forget where in the world we are. It’s centred around four indoor nine-hole mini golf courses that are designed in a 1920’s English country estate style, and couched in a belle époque-inspired funfair of old-school games, street-food, and long classic bars churning out cocktails to servers who deliver their drink-orders to the golf courses. My Gin and Tonic is a potpourri of star anise, pink peppercorns, rosemary, lemon peel and edible flowers. Setting my glass to the side, I knock out one hole-in-one after another. My secret? It’s all about the angles.
Past the iconic Sphynx, in the heart of the Luxor Hotel and Casino, the aptly named, PLAY Playground poses a series of challenges, which we begin with a jello shot—from a plastic syringe. Suited-up in Velcro, I run and jump as high as I can to stick to the bullseye on the wall. We’re told “no skill is required”, which is good, because evidently, try as I might, I have none. However, I have not laughed so hard in a long time. While access to Play is strictly above 16-years-old, the kid emerges in all of us, as we check off the twenty immersive, hands-on games across the 15,000 square ft venue, with obligatory, intermittent stops at the bar. My Pop Rock Martini of vodka, strawberry liqueur, vanilla and a rim of pop rocks keeps me popping as I abide the mantra, “Play like no one is watching.”
There is an explosion of arts in Las Vegas. It’s quite remarkable. We begin at the beginning. Lying in repose at the Neon Museum is a valhalla of glitz, a resting place of Las Vegas-past. The Stardust, The Sahara, The Tropicana, along with 250 unrestored signs and 26 restored, some illuminated, glow in the Neon Boneyard. Walking at eye-level with these signs, one can’t help but wonder, “Oh, if these signs could talk.” While the buildings may be long gone, the mythology of the Golden Age of Las Vegas lives on in these veritable artistic canvases of a celebrated culture and history from a bygone era.
The future of Las Vegas art is multisensory. Arte Museum is an immersion into a glorious media-generated garden of roses that smells as sweet. Visually stunning, the fragrant breeze, and peaceful soundscape, sometimes accompanied by a live pianist, is so calming. Clever use of mirrors and media art make us feel like we’re in endless pillowy floral fields. Touch-sensitive flowers pop open and bloom from the touch of my hand. We pass through other installations like a starry beach with an enveloping, rushing tide that feels cool and refreshing. Straight out of a fairy tale, illuminated animals move through a jungle. We reach a Live Sketchbook Night Safari in which I draw a picture of a deer, colour it in, and “poof!”, it magically appears, animated among the other animals in the jungle.
Musée d’Orsay 2.0 awaits. A grand hall of classic works of art drape the walls, and come to life along with the accompanying popular music of the day. A curtain rises on the paintings of Toulouse Lautrec amidst the music of a Cabaret Can Can. We sit comfortably as it morphs into the world of Claude Monet’s Giverny, and we’re enchanted by the colours and the orchestral movements paired with it. I could sit here all day, ensconced in paintings brought to life. Adjacent to the hall is a unique teahouse, called Arte Café, where we enjoy matcha lattes within the multi-mediascape of stimulating visuals, sounds and aromatics.
Located within in the Manhattan cityscape of New York-New York Hotel & Casino, is the newest production from Cirque du Soleil, called Mad Apple. Like all Cirque productions, it is daring, exciting, and makes me want to get a gym membership. These performers are phenomenal. We’re on the edge of our seats trying to catch our breath as we follow them through the air in beautiful acrobatic maneuvers not-to-be-tried at home. An homage to New York, all the bases are covered, including a musical band, a stand-up comedian and a magician, who also leaves us in hysterics. The dancing and the music elevate the wow factor, as two extraordinary cast members skip-rope, swing and catapult sky-high between vertically rotating wheels, aptly called the Wheel of Death! This is an absolutely fantastic production that has our hearts racing from the opening moment to curtain call. Take a bite of this apple!
From watching entertainment to becoming a character in the show, the DiscoShow at The LINQ Hotel + Experience is disarmingly fun, and begins with dinner at Diner Ross. The story goes that, back in the 70s, a New Yorker would make his rent by hosting “rent parties.” He was also a fan of Diana Ross. The vibe is indeed a step back in time, from the clothes to the décor; the whole scene feels like stagecraft, and I have no idea what is about to happen next!
My Smokey and the Bandit Cocktail of sesame and banana-infused whiskey with cinnamon, honey, vermouth and amontillado, is a sweet palate-opener quickly followed by gigantic popovers, a crunchy baked potato croquette, and a dirty martini salad with olives, juniper, pimento, Roquefort, lemon and chives. The Brick House Chicken is so cluckin’ good, juicy and crisp. This is how chicken should be. The generous portions must be straight out of the 70s, and I appreciate that. For dessert, a massive wedge of salted caramel peanut butter cheesecake is so rich. It’s a round house kick to my palate that makes me Stop! In the Name of Love.
Upon exiting the diner, I enter a bar, which looks like it’s in a New York apartment circa 1970s. I notice some of the guests at this party are on roller skates. Soon they begin dancing, and are introduced by a DJ who then leads the growing crowd into a discothèque. There, the characters reveal the story of disco from its roots to its legacy. Throughout this dance party are intermittent dance lessons. We learn the iconic moves and practise them along with the cast of the show. It is so fun. It feels like we’re in Studio 54 at its zenith. I am enthralled by the progression of the performance, the energy and the exuberance, that when I finally step back outside onto the Las Vegas strip of today, I’ve forgotten what year it is.
All roads lead to the Sphere. Not only is this revolutionary architectural and mathematical triumph the largest spherical building in the world, it so bright that it can even be seen from space. Visually mesmerizing outside; inside, we sit in comfortable seating to watch the ground-breaking film, Postcard From Earth, while blasting through space into the distant future.
As two humans are set to colonize a new world, they are first reminded of the one they left behind: Earth. The technology involved in this visual and audio production at Sphere are extraordinary. This, alone, is worth the visit to Las Vegas.
580,000 sq feet of LEDs wrap around us for a totally immersive visual environment, and new sonic technologies connecting 168,000 speakers immerse us in 3D soundscapes, while the atmospherics of 4D effects obliterate the fourth wall. There is a reason why bands from U2 to Dead & Co. want to play at this venue above any other in the world.
Soaring through cosmos in space to riding in the backseat of a bumpy taxicab in India to almost being trampled by an elephant in Africa, the awesome auditory and visual acuity and stereographic projections of our spectacular nature are so far beyond the scope of any cinematic experience I’ve ever known, so larger than life, that I feel like a molecule in a moment of technological brilliance.
Las Vegas draws the big names, the celebrity chefs, and we want to try them all. At Chef Bobby Flay’s Brasserie B Parisian Steakhouse in Caesars Palace, I indulge in the most silky, savoury Vidalia Onion Soup. Caramelized onions meld with sherry and an umami-rich broth, enveloped in a Gruyère gratin and drizzled with parsley pesto. Every luxurious ladling is culinary comfort. The Lobster Club Sandwich with bacon, avocado and yellow chile mayonnaise is too scrumptious to miss. Accompanied by crackling crunchy potatoes, it hits all the right notes. Thin Apple Tarte is crisp, cinnamon goodness lavished in calvados caramel and topped with one lush scoop of ginger ice cream. Convivial bistronomy satisfies at this Classic French bistro.
When dining in Las Vegas, one does not expect to meet the celebrity chef or restaurateur, but this is exactly what happened to me amidst the frivolity and art deco glamour of Pinky’s by Vanderpump located within the Flamingo Las Vegas. While enjoying my Main Squeezes of colossal white-wine-poached shrimp from within a billowing cloud of dry ice, and juicy, well-seasoned wagyu sliders with sharp cheddar on warm brioche buns, skewered with charred shishito pepper and dill tater tots, I sense the presence of someone leaning toward me. As I turn, Ms. Lisa Vanderpump herself, steps back in surprise, and with a laugh exclaims, “I’m so sorry. I thought you were my husband.” I respond, “You almost-kissing me has to be the highlight of my Las Vegas experience!” And with that, I’m treated to a gorgeous Pump & Bump caviar cocktail of Vanderpump Vodka, orange bitters, green chartreuse, olive brine and a spoonful of caviar.
Though I initially cannot properly pronounce Gjelina, there is no mystery to the success of its concept. Located within The Venetian Las Vegas, the aim here is to provide locally-sourced, produce-forward food. An accessible menu with southwestern flare, it seems globally inspired but honed-in on good, wholesome, healthy food. It is difficult to choose from such a diverse menu when it all looks so good, but my server is an enthusiastic guide. A salad of yellow beets, crunchy croutons of sourdough panzanella, toasted pumpkin seeds, sweet sliced pear, and fresh burrata is an auspicious beginning. The delicious palette of colour that bursts from the cast iron dish of generously-portioned crisp duck confit, gently dusted with five-spice on a bed of fluffy farro, with chunks of butternut squash, bok choy, purple radish and black garlic, is a reflection of a kitchen that respects ingredients and how they marry each other for flavour-forward nourishment.
Chefs can be more creative here, because it is expected, in the rarified air of Las Vegas, that a chef’s creations will be more exotic than what we could get at home. Nowhere is this more true than at Dominique Ansel Marche located in Paris Las Vegas. Chef Ansel is revered around the world for his refined techniques and his playful inventiveness. Among his creations are the Cronut, a croissant-donut hybrid, but I am here for another of his inventions: the Chocolate Chip Cookie Shot. Why dunk your cookie in milk, when you could pour your Madagascan vanilla milk into your cookie?
Chef Ansel makes pastries fun. Whether it’s the sinfully divine tarts of sensuous textures, like the Raspberry Pistachio with pistachio praliné, pistachio whipped ganache and vanilla sable, or the Lemon Tart with lemon confit, lemon madeleine, lemon curd, lime zest and toasted meringue, each item is lovingly composed of only the freshest seasonal ingredients. It’s the most beautiful showcase of pastries imaginable. Even the mocha latte is prepared with freshly grated chocolate à la minute. Croissants and viennoiserie are baked fresh each morning, crêpes are made-to-order, and the rotisserie chicken and generous crunchy baguette sandwiches draw crowds of those who are in-the-know and those who want to be.
Las Vegas never sleeps. Day or night, the lights, sounds and flavours abound. In this perennial playground there are always incredible new options to explore, and with everything designed to keep us comfortably inside, the range of galleries, exhibits and dining is sans pareil.
