Sara Waxman, OOnt, is an award-winning restaurant critic, best-selling cookbook…
The weekend of partying, clubbing, deafening resto sound-tracks, hair, makeup and razzle-dazzle ends by Sunday afternoon.
We want to while-away an hour or two in quiet conversation with old friends, or get to know a new friend. We want plush velvet sofas, a generous selection of beautifully crafted small edibles, unobtrusive live music, and many cups of exotic hand blended tea to re-hydrate and rejuvenate. Perhaps a glass of bubbly. We want an afternoon in Toronto that demands nothing of us except to relax and enjoy.
Sunday Afternoon Tea at Frenchy in the Hilton Hotel
I have brought with me two guests from Japan where tea is a way of life. At Frenchy, just off the lobby in the Hilton Toronto Downtown, they have welcomed us and embraced us in this Toronto restaurant with hospitality and showmanship service. Executive Chef Aaron Chen and his talented pastry team promise a journey through classic flavours with modern elevation.

First, there is an elegant presentation of tea in individual cases to complement the fare. An exceptional selection of luxury teas from Tea Leaves, a renowned Canadian label. A highlight is their Amour, a blend of rose, cocoa, and bergamot with a touch of blue cornflower. And a selection from Dammann Frères, a storied tea purveyor with a history dating back to 1692, known for sophisticated and refined blends.
Various delicacies, elegantly presented on tiered-platters, feature classic tea sandwiches such as smoked salmon and cucumber with cream cheese, a tiny quiche, Fromage et Poivre and Wild Mushroom with Truffle Aioli, I am very particular about scones. And here the Chef’s promise is fulfilled. The signature scones are terrific—classic and blueberry with clotted cream, butter and a selection of jams. The Opera Cake is my favorite, until I taste the Cassis Choux. In fact, there is not one false note on the entire three-tiered tray.

Take note that there is also a Vegatarian Menu and a Kids Menu as well.
Since my back is to the wall, I did not notice the provocative mural behind me. And that’s a story for another time.
The Living Room on the 6th floor of the W Hotel
A hidden gem. This lovely room with its unique lighting, wonderfully comfortable sofas and chairs, and friendly round bar, has windows for walls that look out on a landscaped terrace. The Living Room in the W Hotel is another world, far from the cacophony of Bloor Street traffic.
We are here on Saturday afternoon for a luxurious Living Room “High Beau-Tea.” Both of us are appreciators of the unique, the whimsical and the delicious. Our server, George (who has a surprisingly witty sense of humour) brings our introduction via vials of tea from which we choose Sencha Kyoto Green Tea and Creme of Earl Gray. Lovely.

George approaches, carrying what appears to be a piece of expensive, designer carry-on luggage, places it on our table, unsnaps the locks and opens the case. A magic moment. For this beauty-inspired experience, it’s a professional makeup case with each expanding shelf filled with edible jewels of savouries and pastries. A generosity of riches! George introduces each delectable item and it’s just a blur, so mesmerized am I by admiring the contents.
We begin with the Foundation: The Savoury. The tiny terra-cotta Garden Pot gets my attention because of its crisp fresh vegetables, but it’s the rich layers of sunchoke puree, ranch dressing and crumbly mushroom “soil” that makes the finish. A petite Mushroom Eclair with its filling of vincotto, truffled ricotta and parmesan is three bites of deliciousness.
Next, I have my eye on a crisp cannelloni filled with tender house-smoked salmon rillette, topped with crunchy pearls of salmon roe. But what’s this? A tiny tube that begs to be opened and squeezed gives us a creamy lemon gel which further enhances this morsel. Waldorf Brioche, a play on the renowned New York Waldorf salad offers smoked chicken, sliced green grapes, candied walnut and a hint of cheddar.

One of my favorites thus far is the Prawn Cocktail Tart. A tart shell is piled high with tiny Icelandic shrimp moistened with tomato horseradish jam. Now for the substantials: classic Sliders layered with Mortadella, pistachio pesto, and a slice of lush flor di latte.
Their imagination knows no bounds as we transcend full force into the beauty inspired theme to the Primer: The Sweet. A little case holds two Lip Smackers which are lavender chocolates in the shape of lips, filled with dark creamy chocolate, followed by a strawberry flavoured chocolate lipstick in a tube. This goes immediately into my purse because I know a little princess who will love it.
We consider a glass of bubbly, but we’ll stick to more hot water for our tea at this time. Traditional scones with cranberry and orange scones are a treat, especially with creme fraiche, berry jam and a dollop of clotted night cream. This would have been enough to make me happy, but there is much more on the next shelf. A lovely tart filled with kalamansi curd topped with blueberries and haskaps is a joy to eat. While we are engrossed in conversation, I remove the lid of a cosmetic-like jar and start eating the petit cookies inside without a thought of sharing.

Oops. Alas, we’re nearing the end with a cheesecake and raspberry macaron. But I have saved the best for last, the Ruby Chapeau, a ruby fudge sun hat set atop an apple and salted caramel cake. We applaud the pastry chef.
But wait. There is the grand finale, aptly named Scent and Sip Experience. George is our maestro here. One by one, he wafts three fans in our faces to sniff three exclusive Guerlain perfumes paired with curated cocktails customized to the notes of each scent. We choose a honey/tobacco scent and a citrus/floral. To say they are unusual and wonderful is a total understatement.
This is a special experience to be shared only with someone who will appreciate it as much or more than you will.
Sara Waxman, OOnt, is an award-winning restaurant critic, best-selling cookbook author, food and travel journalist and has eaten her way through much of the free world for four decades, while writing about it in books, newspapers and magazines. She is the Editor in Chief of DINE magazine.