Several years ago, I ran out of gas in the town of St. Marys. It was late at night. Gas stations were closed. I walked to the nearest Tim Hortons, and asked if anyone knew where I might be able to buy some gas. One man replied, “I’ve got a fuel tank. I can give you some gas.” With that, we hopped into his truck, drove to his house where he filled a gas can for me, and drove me back to my car, so I could pour enough gas to get me to an ONroute on the highway. My good Samaritan worked at a yogourt company, and so he also gave me a flat of yogourt containers. That kind of country hospitality does not happen every day, but this is St. Marys.
On an early September morning, my son and I pull up to the historic St. Marys Public Library. The two-storey rough-cut limestone building was constructed between 1904 and 1905 in Greek Temple style for $10,000, which was donated by Andrew Carnegie. It’s the most relaxing hideaway to sit and read a good book. But we’re here for kayaks. In addition to books, the St. Marys Library rents out kayaks. They’re free, but you have to sign them out—like books.
The librarian hands us the keys, and we head to the Yak Shack in The Flats by the river. There, we unlock our two vessels, named Arthur and Nora, and slide into the water. We’ve brought with us a beautiful smoked salmon bagel and freshly cut turkey sandwich from the Flour Mill. They make the most wholesome and delicious picnic lunches around.
The river winds its way around the town. We pass by kids fishing. A dog jingles his collar as he follows us along the shoreline. We’re immersed in a calm pastoral vibe, and we’re not on the clock to get back anytime soon. Just drifting lazily.
Back on land, Queen Street is the main street. It’s like an epicurean scavenger hunt. We stop at the Snapping Turtle Coffee Roasters, a family-run, micro-roaster of single-origin coffee. There’s always some creative concoction listed on the chalkboard, and today it’s a Salty Sea Turtle of nitro cold brew with salted caramel and hazelnut foam. I love all of those words, so, ya, I’ll take one of those. Across the street is Chocolate Factory where we scoop up smoothies and truffles, and check out the seasonal novelties. Troyer’s Spices is an imaginarium for a gastronome like me. Hundreds of ground herbs and spices from Spanish Smoked Paprika to Hungarian Smoked Paprika; Black Himalayan Salt to Smoked Sea Salt; Aleppo Pepper, Cassia Cinnamon Bark, Coffee Rub, Berber spices, and so many more that set my kitchen ambitions alight.
The Flour Mill is a hub of activity run by mother-daughter team, Tracey and Alex Pritchard, who’s aim is to make it easy for us to make delicious food at home. All their produce is organic and local, and the aromas wafting from the kitchen are seductive: Quiche Lorraine with Gruyere, caramelized onion and bacon; Mixed Berry Galette and Blueberry Lemon Loaves. Their chicken pot pies and lasagnas sell out like hot cakes. They make their own granola, salad dressings like Lemon and Tahini, salads, sandwiches and frittatas. Clearly, there is a nurturing spirit here. “We try to curate our favourite things and share them with people,” enthuses Alex. Locals come for groceries; the full table-service brunch includes the most revitalizing seasonal smoothies, and catering is in-demand. We’d purchase anything to stay here and, through osmosis, soak up all the good positive energy.
There’s a great community spirit in St. Marys. At the Flour Mill, I’m encouraged to check out Betty’s Bookshelf, which is so lovely that we end up purchasing some wonderful books, and while there, a fellow book shopper tells me that I have to check out the scones at Snapping Turtle, where I’m told the most addictive munchables are the Chicken Karaage bites at Tuttco.
The feel-good vibe at TuttCo embraces us the moment we walk through the door. Whether sidled at the bar or at the bistro table, there is a disarming and unpretentious sociability that immediately makes us feel at home. Executive Chef and owner Andrew Tutt is firmly rooted in principles of sustainability which are reflected in the menu of locally grown and produced ingredients, and even local wine, beer and spirits.
These pop in your mouth nubbins of delicately fried chicken are so good. Be forewarned: the crunch, dusted in light seasoning, and the scoopable togarashi mayo that gives a kick of spice and a creamy compliment to the tender meat, is addictive. A squeeze of lemon gives a citric splash that rounds out the profile of this flavour-forward appy, and I am tempted to order another.
In keeping with the globally-inspired menu, we go for variety. The Roast Beef Hoagie is a scrumptious confluence of tender roast beef, Swiss and cheddar cheese, piquant horseradish mayo and sweet caramelized onions. It’s a sandwich fit for a king. The Po’Boy is chock full of sustainably-harvested firm shrimp, lightly fried and elevated with a creamy and tangy remoulade that brings a gentle heat that hits the right spot for a every satisfying bite.
St. Marys is traditionally nicknamed “Stone Town” for its limestone, but now it may as well be for its cheese. Stonetown Artisan Cheese, located just outside town, is racking up awards from Quebec to Wisconsin. Over thirty different kinds of Swiss Alpine style cheeses, thermalized not pasteurized, come from Stonetown’s high quality Holstein cows’ milk. A tour shows us the labour-intensive process, but of course the highlight is sampling cheese in the store.
On one side of St. Marys is the historic Grand Trunk Walking Trail, a haven for cyclists in summer and cross-country skiers in winter. On the other, St. Marys Quarry, Canada’s largest outdoor freshwater swimming pool. Fishing enthusiasts toss their lines for Rock Bass in a second quarry across the road, but the Super Splash Waterpark is the greatest splash pad ever. Refreshing and endlessly fun, its where every child wants to be on a hot summer’s day. Climbing, jumping, sliding and diving, it’s the ultimate playground for kids, while parents relax and dangle their toes in the cool water.
As night falls the stars dance. It’s dark enough that when the Aurora Borealis flares it glows above St. Marys in waves. We stand in the fields, gaze up and wonder. This kind of event doesn’t happen everyday, but this is St. Marys.
For more information about St. Marys, or to plan your own visit, go to: www.discoverstmarys.ca/en/index.aspx
