A visit to Hong Kong brings out a lustful fervor in me, like that of a golfer who, after years of restrictions, arrives at the green with his clubs. At sunset, the sky is magical. From the entire spectrum of dim sum to street food to Michelin Star restaurants, open any door and say hello to deliciousness.
Hong Kong is a crucible of cultural identity, and that culture is a cuisine that never fails to amaze and impress. First, we eat. Then, after the last jasmine tea, the last morsel of dessert, the last after-dinner liqueur, we shop. The Ladies Market in Mongkok awaits, and draws me to it like a moth to a flame.
While the world was in lock-down, many restaurants disappeared into the black hole of pandemic closures. Then, a burst of pent-up energy sparked new openings, reshaping the city’s food scene. This is a testament to Hong Kong’s resilience, perseverance, and its obsessive, unwavering love of food. Re-inventing themselves, many of the unemployed turned job losses into business opportunities.
Baristas became new café owners, restaurant staff became restaurant owners, and the next generation of entrepreneurs was born Visiting Hong Kong today, the ecstatic promise of gastronomy-with-no-limits quickens the adrenaline.
Many celebrated chefs are saying, “Okay, let’s have some fun now,” putting a new twist on centuries-old Cantonese cuisine. That is not to say that they are trying to re-invent the wheel, just adding some sizzle and unique interpretations that excite the eye and the palate.
The annual Hong Kong Wine & Dine Festival, most recently last November 2022, is an event that draws an international body of like-minded foodies, the Hong Kong Tourism Board brought together some of the city’s best chefs to highlight traditional Hong Kong cuisine through what it calls “Chinese Omakase.” Omakase is a Japanese expression known in the sushi world, and means loosely, “you’ll get whatever the chef feels like serving, and you’re going to love it.”
At the Festival, there are two groups with two distinct schools of thought and practices: one is composed of seasoned veteran chefs who create HK favorites using traditional techniques passed down for generations; and the other is made up of creative souls who bat ideas around like ping pong balls, and put a fresh effervescence into Cantonese cuisines.
Hong Kong has always been known for its fabulous nightlife and some of the hottest cocktail bars in Asia. ARGO is one of the new, “go-to” bars with eye-popping décor of natural elements and bar design, seamlessly blending the indoor/outdoor environment. The Star Ferry transports you in minutes to the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong and its new entrant, ARGO. It sits in a prime location by Victoria Harbour, alongside Mexican-inspired craft cocktail bar, Coa. Mixologists feature innovative, forward-thinking concepts, and serve unique, creative cocktails with ingredients sourced in Hong Kong and beyond. “I don’t know what’s in it, but I like it,” is my motto.
With Hong Kong bars shining brightly in the international awards arena, the bar scene is becoming more vibrant and awesome. From luxury liquor and wine to creative cocktails and locally crafted beers, there is always the option to amaze. Home-grown talent and world-class mixologists keep breaking the boundaries, providing an exciting array of beverages awaiting rediscovery. A pub-crawl in Hong Kong may well become one of our most cherished travel memories. We take time to unearth the unique ambience and signature drinks in each of these fabulous new cocktail bars.
Cruise Restaurant & Bar is a tropical retreat high above the bustling city. Head up to the 23rd floor of Hyatt Centric Victoria Harbour Hong Kong for the ultimate rooftop dining environment filled with exotic plants. From this lofty perch, we can see clear across the harbour to the Kowloon Peninsula and enjoy a one-of-a-kind al fresco culinary experience. DarkSide is set above the iconic Avenue of Stars on the Kowloon waterfront. This sultry cocktail bar at Rosewood Hong Kong is home to a serene terrace boasting views of the epic Hong Kong Island skyline. In addition to a vast menu of dark spirits like rum, whisky and calvados, the bar serves up contemporary takes on the classics and cocktails inspired by Hong Kong flavors.
New restaurants, bistros and bars have emerged by the water, offering amazing dining opportunities, alongside extraordinary views of renowned Victoria Harbour from all angles, day and night. Watch the iconic Star Ferry glide across the harbour over lunch, soak up Golden Hour as the sun sets in the evening, or be mesmerized by the breath-taking “A Symphony of Lights” multi-media show in the Harbour after sundown. An ideal bird’s-eye perch to view the Symphony, is at Hutong restaurant in on the 18th floor of the H Zentre, which offers floor-to-ceiling views of the harbour. While soaking up the stunning vistas, diners can look forward to northern Chinese dishes and contemporary dim sum paired with cocktails inspired by Chinese botanicals.
As Golden Hour casts a warm glow over the breath-taking Hong Kong Island skyline, there’s no better place to soak up the scenery than Hue Dining. Located in the renovated Hong Kong Museum of Art, this modern Aussie restaurant ensures every guest enjoys sweeping views of the glittering harbour, thanks to a full wall of panoramic windows. Thanks to its prime waterfront location in IFC mall, Chinesology offers extensive views of Victoria Harbour and the kaleidoscopic Tsim Sha Tsui skyline, including the new M+ and Hong Kong Palace Museum. When it comes to drinks, cocktails like the Bamboo Punch and Chinese Apothecary pay homage to Chinese traditional herbology.
Artistic merit is not created in a vacuum, it comes with a responsibility to its source: our natural resources. While it might not be obvious, recognizing sustainability is a growing trend in Hong Kong’s culinary scene. Some of the best chefs have recognized the need to take care of our planet.
Realizing that our resources are fragile, they have taken the lead in making sustainable choices. Many are using their influence to educate other chefs and diners about sustain-ability. This includes what’s on the menu, and what goes on the kitchen.
Chefs at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental source locally and regionally as much as possible in order to reduce their carbon footprint. Dishes are based on seasonal produce with zero waste policy in mind using the nose to tail and root, stem and leaf philosophy. Chefs are purchasing only seafood which has been harvested sustainably, which means eliminating seafood that is vulnerable to over-fishing.
Though not part of the Chinese Omakase, two wildly successful Michelin Star chefs with imaginations in overdrive are ex-pats Vicky Chen of VEA and Alvin Leung of Bo Innovation. Coincidentally, both were raised in Scarborough, Ontario. This long and narrow room is a one-of-a-kind design with four semicircle bars crafted of marble. From comfy bar stools, we all face an open kitchen. About a dozen chefs and staff who appear to have been groomed by GQ magazine work with quiet discipline, focus and skill, creating fascinating culinary theatre. Place settings are fun: a rock, napkin and a scattering of leaf shaped herb seasoned crisps. A bronze envelope holds today’s menu. The motivational phrase on the chalkboard is telling: Team Work Makes the Dream Work. Let the games begin.
Chef/owner Alvin Leung is not weighed down by the restraints of conventional wisdom. Prepare for a flight of fancy with the Demon Chef’s X-Treme Chinese Cuisine. The welcome is formal but not pretentious; friendly but not assuming. “It’s very personal and from my distinct perspective,” says Leung. The last of the Made in Hong Kong Masters was commissioned to custom-make soup bowls and plates, hand paint tea pots and forge dinner knives. Leung is “all in.” The focus of today’s menu is Child’s Play. Who knows what tomorrow’s 3-star Michelin menu will offer?
Hong Kong is one of the most international and diverse cities in the world. Borders change, people emigrate, pages of recipes flutter, and as people from other lands settle into neighborhoods, restaurants pop up like flowers after a rain.
This brings enclaves of cultural cuisine into many neighborhoods. International flavors and cultural dining destinations are as commonplace as they are in any Western city. Feel like Italian? Go to Central or Western neighborhoods where there is a concentration of Italian restaurants. Grab a pizza or settle in for either a Southern or Northern Italian feast. Want to enjoy authentic Thai cuisine? Go to Little Thailand in Kowloon City and find endless choices in restaurants and even grocery stores.
Kimberley Street in Tsim Sha Tsui is where we find restaurants with the exotic flavors of Korea. Next to Chinese, one of the most popular cuisines here is Japanese. A visit to the Causeway Bay neighborhood provides the opportunity to experience an exciting gastronomic journey.
Hong Kong has nurtured many artists and built numerous museums, but it’s hard to tear oneself away from the M+ museum. Exhibits of 20th and 21st Century visual culture, encompass visual art, design and architecture, and the moving image. Art buffs can continue their pursuits and find refreshment in Sham Shui Po, where many cafes that target art lovers have opened, and happily show off their cool, artful decor.
This might be a good time for a change of pace, to take a break and appreciate the reality and beauty of nature. The city has many hiking trails and outlying islands just half an hour away from the city. Adventure lovers say that Dragon’s Back is an easy and scenic hike. Or hop on the ferry for a thirty-minute ride to Lamma Island that will take us away from the city for an easy hike on one of Hong Kong’s largest islands.
Go to Hong Kong to explore, to shop, to dine like a prince, a pauper, or a family on a budget. Go to celebrate or to grieve. Go alone or with a group. There is excitement, the surprise of the new, the comfort of the familiar and the magnificence of nature. You will be in awe of the unique flavors, diversity of cuisines and the sights and sounds of this small island.
Hong Kong is ever-evolving, re-inventing itself and remaining one of the most exciting and surprising cities to visit in the world.
