
Today, after meticulous care and patience, the obsession of Maxim Popov is a reality: Convivium Dining Community. The name, derived from Latin, captures the essence of shared experience. Popov did not compromise on his ideals of even the most minute detail. Drawings. Designs. Menus. The ever-daunting Building Permits. All the while, he collated a talented team of designers and a master chef and crew, imbued with the passion and expertise to match his own. It took time. Mission accomplished. Popov has created the most beautiful, elegant, classic, white tablecloth restaurant in downtown Toronto--in the historic (circa 1857) The Tin & Copper Smith building. One of Toronto’s architectural treasures, originally designed by Joseph Sheard, who would later serve as Mayor of Toronto.
An entrance hall lined with murals of trees and nature calms us after the tumult of downtown traffic, and leads to a hostess whose smile lights up the room. From our round table at the window, we admire the fascinating muraled-walls, plush upholstery and tranquil settings on white flowing tablecloths. The back patio, like a garden enclave, is Toronto's best kept secret. It’s a restaurant where you can be comfortable in a cocktail dress or casual wear. A swanky surprise is a large (100 gram) tin of fine Malossol black Caviar set in a golden bowl atop crushed ice, and side plates of waffle cut blinis, butter and mother of pearl spoons. Sparkling Sauterne is poured into tulip glasses. Welcome to Convivium.
Convivium has a unique personality; a certain je ne sais quoi that immediately embraces us with a confident welcome. Passers-by peer into the windows, nod in agreement and enter. They can head for the long bar with comfortable stools and sofas, or to a banquet in the dining room. The menu is a conversation piece, as it hip-hops across the culinary map of Europe and lands in Toronto, taking full advantage of our excellent local farm products.
The Starters menu brings a dilemma of impossible choices, reluctantly we forego Branzino Ceviche and Seared Golden Scallops and choose a fascinating trio, all presented in to-be-shared portions: Patagonian Tooth Fish Crudo swims in a fresh citric sauce. This fish is a first for me, and has an interesting silky texture that lends itself perfectly to a "crudo" presentation. Fig Salad intrigues me, and I am delighted with this sweet and citric toss of chewy dried figs on baby arugula, goat cheese, matchsticks of green apple and caramelized walnuts. But the star of the trio is Black Angus Tartare on a beam of fried confit potatoes, a dish that I cannot stop praising. Potatoes are sliced paper thin, layered with Parmesan and given a quick deep-fry. The tartar is piled high on the potato and capped with light Chilli Aioli and Black Caviar. Prepare to swoon, my friends.
My first real French Onion Soup experience happened in a small diner in Montreal circa 1960s, and it has gone downhill ever since. Forever hopeful, I order the Classic French Onion Soup and cross my fingers. Maybe this will be the one. Yes! The bowl is heavy, topped with two thick slices of French bread, crusty and melting with Gruyere Cheese. The slow-cooked sweet onions and broth is so rich and savoury with a hint of Chardonnay and makes this the French Onion Soup of blessed memory. It is absolutely divine. I hate to share, but I am a victim here of my good manners.
The other soup, Veloute/Cream DuBarry, a thick bowl of leeks, cauliflower and cream, that whispers of nutmeg and sage. Oh, the drama of Madame DuBarry: the chief mistress of King Louis XV, wife of his brother, and the most powerful woman in France—until she was executed by the guillotine in the fashion of the day. Has her namesake soup not earned more robust flavour than a whisper?
We have been admiring a unique portrait on the wall and learn that this is a logo that pays homage to the City of Toronto, reimagining its iconic coat of arms with a modern touch. The three animals—beaver, bear and eagle—adapted from the city's emblem, are anchored by a wine glass, and represent diversity, strength and unity converging at "the table."
The kitchen clicks along comfortably, pacing our courses with plenty of time to savour, converse, and sip before the next round of dishes. I am intrigued by the stunning uniforms worn by the servers. Popov humbly shares that he designed the outfits himself, and had them sewn to his specifications. Did I mention that no detail has escaped his touch?
Birthday celebration? You could get caviar with a birthday candle instead of cake!
The philosophy of Chef Oxana Glazkova is genuine: “I start with the classical base and gently flip the perspective to show that time-honored, approachable cuisine can be vibrant, evolving and full of life." Clearly, flavour is what drives her, and that is deliciously apparent in our main courses. Arborio rice Risotto, golden rich with the flavour of saffron makes a luscious nest for crispy duck leg confit that glistens with orange glaze. Grilled Octopus, crisped yet tender with the scent of the sea, is partnered on the plate with blistered tomato pearls, red pepper mouse, roasted potatoes, and light and lush chopped-herb sauce that I'd like to eat with a spoon. Branzino Fillets are blessedly boneless and layered with spinach and sun-dried tomatoes, on a raft of asparagus surrounded by a moat of beurre blanc and red caviar. As witty as it is delicious.
The savoury aroma of slow roasted Veal Osso Bucco is tantalizing. A sprinkling of gremolata, the grated lemon rind and parsley condiment, adds another accent to the dish, which is presented on a bed of risotto spiked with saffron and an aromatic sauce for luxuriously rich dish.
Offer me dessert and I say, bring it on. But after this feast, I can only taste. Eclair Berry Blush filled with raspberry, and Eclair Convivium with a poppy seed filling and frosting reminds me of a pastry my mother would bake at certain times of the year. Traditional recipes from Europe have travelled well. Pavlova, claimed by Australia and New Zealand—since the renowned Russian ballerina, Anna Pavlova, performed in both countries—looks gorgeous and has a surprising citric filling of buckthorn fruit.
There is so much more to Convivium. Stay tuned to more about the fantastic (and cost-conscious) Happy Hour menu every day from 4 to 6pm; the intriguing wine and spirits collection; and what you will see when you get out of the elevator on the second and third floors of different private rooms, each with their own individual character and design. Convivium Dining Community invites us to experience the cultural ritual of a joyful convergence of people, stories and ideas around the table.
Convivium Dining Community - 416-691-9909 - 83 Yonge Street