What's in a name? When we refer to “Arbequina,” we are typically referring to the very popular, highly aromatic olive varietal from Arbeca, Spain. However, legend has it that it was introduced to Spain from the Palestinian region in the 18th century, before proliferating around the world. The path of Chef Moeen AbuZaid, too, has been a journey: from Jordan to New York to Toronto. The menu at Arbequina Restaurant traces the map of his culinary journey and true passion.
Chef AbuZaid’s wife and partner, Asma Syed-Abuzaid, lived in Copenhagen, and this Nordic inspiration is subtly infused to elevate Middle Eastern elements.
Seated in our cozy banquet, we savour a vibrant and refreshing Pomegranate Lime mocktail of sweet and spritely pomegranate molasses, lime and ginger. All beverages are non-alcoholic and flavour forward. In short order our Za'atar Bun arrives. Warm and fresh, we pull apart this crown of dough and swoon over its soft nourishment. An accompanying dish of labneh, whipped in-house, and enlivened with lemon zest, chives, za'atar and honey seductively entreats our palates to let down any reservations and give over complete trust to this kitchen. And we’ve only just begun.
Tantalizing dips of eggplant ganoush with tomato and lentils, and hummus with lahmeh, curry leaves and pine nuts, are so rich and savoury and exude a garden-fresh quality. This kitchen pays attention to textures. Velvety textures embrace and envelope our palates with such sensual quality, it's simply divine.
A dish of cauliflower, crispy shallots, burrata, green olives and hazelnuts is a potpourri of ingredients that coalesce into a medley of contrasting textures from the crunchy little nubbins of cauliflower and toasted nuts to the cool creaminess of the burrata, with accents of briny olives and slightly peppery parsley. Nothing is overpowering, it’s all very clean and light.
Chef AbuZaid demonstrates smooth facility as he moves through the seasons, adjusting his menu to maintain a dynamic and fresh repertoire of the exotic.
A half chicken, presented two ways, reflects two worlds. The chicken breast, marinated, smoked and roasted is shish-kabobbed to deliciousness. Generously portioned it is brushed with garlic sauce and lathered in an accompaniment of house-made aioli of chicken stock and hot sauce. We easily remove it from the skewer with a fork and wrap it in lettuce to devour every last scrumptious morsel. Tender chicken thighs are deboned and deep fried to perfect crunch. Lightly seasoned and splashed with lemon, these are addictively yummy, and we leave not even one crumb.
We see what other tables have ordered, and follow those who seem in-the-know. The beef short rib is a stand-alone. Slow cooked for forty-eight hours for that pull-apart tenderness that we dream about, it is orbited by small plates of tomato salsa, pickled onion, fluffy rice and a stack of warm, flaky Saj bread. Lacquered in lavish accents of dates and spices, it elicits that wonderful umami effect that is beyond savoury. The thin, soft Saj bread adds dimension and interactivity as we wrap it up for another means to enjoy this dish.
Our dessert more than satisfies the sweet-tooth. Chocolate, presented in three layers, represents three different experiences in the chef’s journey: New York, Paris, Germany. 70% Ecuadorian chocolate flourless cake with olive oil crème, sits on a semi freddo. Dusted with a crumble of walnut and cocoa nibs, it is topped with the thin snap of chocolate tuile for a delightful finish.
Arbequina is a local, sustainable, zero-waste, and zero-proof (alcohol free) culinary adventure; a sincere and genuine homage to Chef AbuZaid’s love for his Arabic roots. Comfortably settled into Roncesvalles Village, it is unassuming, without flash, and has attracted its loyal clientele through delicious word of mouth. The quiet neighbourhood has tried to play it down, to keep it a secret from foodies who would line up around the block if they knew. From the street you would not know that behind this unobtrusive sign and simple glass door, lies a haven of exotic dishes, with aromas, textures and tastes that thrill the palate of the most adventurous diner.