"There are two kinds of light: the glow that illuminates, and the glare that obscures." —James Thurber
Surely Thurber had Florence in mind. Florence glows in illuminary light that is evident in the paintings of the early Renaissance. The sun bathes the piazzas and statue of David in incandescent beauty, making the cold marble look warm. After a sudden shower, the sunlight in the centuries old, private garden of the Four Seasons Hotel creates a magical space. We have been watching the rain during breakfast through the Paladio-style windows in the Michelin starred Il Palagio restaurant. It's my favourite meal of the day, served on exquisite china along with a flute of champagne. The beginning of another fabulous day in Firenze.
Our guide spends some quality time with us at the Uffizi and Bargello. She refers to the artists and their works as her friends, and is a fount of fascinating information. A stone's throw from the Ponte Vecchio on via de' Georgofili is the tiny, perfect café, 'Ino. A very chic clientele nibbles on made-to-order Panini and biscotti plumped with chunks of orange chocolate.
At Coronas Cafe, I treat myself to a gelato, which is so addictive I have two more. I am not myself. There is a carousel in the Piazza della Repubblica and, for two Euros, I have a great ride. Everywhere there are restaurants, and we select Caffe Donnini. Pasta funghi, pizza Margherita, vino, vino, vino. Why drink water when there is wine?
I am offered my personal printed menu at dinner, listing the suggested wines and seven courses that read like culinary poetry. A carte of five wines that begins with Champagne and ends with Vin Santo is just fine with me. Mushrooms that proliferate the area are in season: Fresh porcini mushroom salad with parmigiano, porcini risotto with provolone Podolico and Iberico de Bellota chorizo, tagliolini with porcini. It is impossible to choose a favourite. I enjoy the parts and the sum of all the parts.
The food is the culture, and when food and culture are combined, it is an evening's entertainment. I would not be surprised to learn that dinner theatre was invented in Italy. Impresario and Chef Fabio Picchi and diva Maria Cassi have created a fabulous dinner theatre, Teatro del Sale—members only, but membership fees are minimal. We're in luck; seated away from the buffet table we are at the kitchen window and get our food handed to us. Even dinner is drama, all'Italiano.
Friends, Romans, Countrywomen, from here our Italianissimo adventure continues to Parma to follow in the steps of Napoleon Bonaparte, and then to spa in the healing waters of Tuscany.