Carved by time and crowned by snow, the jagged silhouettes that rise out of the western prairies quickly come into view as the imposing giants of the Rocky Mountains. Punctuated by turquois lakes and wild forests, and ribboned by undulating roads and switchbacks, the crisp mountain air beckons. We rev up to follow.
Setting our coordinates for the Mesozoic era, we pass through endless fields of yellow canola that wave to us as we drive by en route to the Badlands. One heart-stopping speeding-ticket later we arrive at the famed Royal Tyrrell Museum. Time was, Drumheller was tropical. A diversity of dinosaurs flourished. Now, within this bedrock of history lies a wealth of fossils that have made this the Dinosaur Capital of the World.
Perspectives come into focus when you're standing beside a twelve-foot dinosaur leg. Like kids in a Jurassic playground, we run from one interactive exhibit to the next. With mad scientist grins, we digitally mix and match head, tail, front and hind leg composites which, according to calculations, make the legs of our Parasaurolophus too weak for it to get very far. In our fossil workshop we create our own clay fossil of a Raptor’s claw. It is unlike any other museum. Here, we stand where dinosaurs once roamed.
A short jaunt leads us to the Hoodoos—tall chimneys of soft rock that look like giant king oyster mushrooms. Both the kid in me and the kid with me beam knowing-smiles at each other and bolt up the steep slope of the mesa. “You’re it!” He slaps me as he rushes past. Together we climb. Up top we look down with wonderment matched by accomplishment. The joy of the climb, the exhilaration in this land-before-time, makes for a day plucked out of our imaginations.
Back in Calgary at Charbar, Rocky Mountain proteins meet an Argentine-style asado in culinary matrimony. Sidling up to the bar in front of a wood-fired grill we gear up for a feast. The key ingredient is the smoky essence from the mesmerizing 900° hardwood coal and fire pit. Local sour dough is grilled, brushed with olive oil and lavished with a brilliant crunch of pistachios and creamy avocado. These guys know how to walk the guac! Traditional Argentine empanadas— baked not fried—are scrumptious, savoury pockets of tenderly slow cooked Alberta beef. Nine spiced half chicken is so cluckin’ crisp and juicy with its chorus of notes from the smoke and all the spices that enliven our palates. Short ribs practically melt off the bone into a chimichurri and charcoal-roasted bliss of apples and greens. A true taste of Calgary.
At sun-up we hit the road for the mountains with a detour for a river run at Chinook Rafting in Kananaskis. In an instant, our slow-moving flow picks up speed. We're excited and nervous for that sudden rollercoaster moment when: “Woosh!” We're sucked down into a vortex. Our raft folds up like a taco. We’re shooting down a fury of rapids, paddling hard. Horror turns to elation, as my son screams, “Again! Again!” We glide through swells and feel the rush from the fast moving waters at the foothills of the mountains.
Warm and dry we continue to Banff. As the Rockies loom upon us, the majesty of the mountains evokes feelings of enchantment that lead us to Sunshine for Alpine Air Adventures Rock Climbing.
Strapped into our gear, we take turns on the cliff wall and, like The Little Engine That Could, coax ourselves upward. It’s a mental challenge. All the safeguards are in place, but we still have to figure out our next moves, exercise focus, balance and trust. There is no better way to be immersed in a mountain region than to climb a section of it. Inch by inch our confidence soars.
Time to view Banff from above. Seated within the glass bubble of the Banff Gondola we’re pulled up Sulphur Mountain. Full disclosure: I don’t do heights! Maintaining a brave face is my challenge right now as we soar ever higher. The views are extraordinary. We look right and left, up and down, filling our eyes with the sky. At 2290 meters up the boardwalk is much cooler than below, still we walk the 1km route to the meteorological station, and stare in amazement as rain falls from the clouds on one side of the mountain.
Our window table at the Sky Bistro keeps us on the edge of our seats, and the farm-to-summit menu keeps us proudly rooted in pan-Canadian cuisine. Rich velvety chowder generously ladled with mussels, clams, salmon and prawns, and bejeweled with tobiko reflects the sophistication of the west coast. The smoked Angus striploin with its robust juicy flavours, and the bison tenderloin tartare, lean and slightly sweet, with crisp capers and a beautifully radiant pickled egg yolk are sublimely textured dishes true to the Rockies. But it’s the 48-hour sous vide confit duck wings, lightly crisped and drizzled with honey and Saskatoon berry puree that could make us run up this mountain. While the gondola ride back down is equally exciting, my little mountain climber is tuckered out.
A new day brings new experiences, beginning with the best views from the base of the mountain over breakfast at The Juniper Bistro. We share the savoury comfort of shakshuka, eggs simmered in a za’atar spiced tomato sauce; and fluffy, wholesome French toast stuffed with apples, brie and candied nuts. Each bite is more flavourful than the one before, and yet we sit in silence, hypnotized by the mountain range before us. So perfect and pristine, it almost looks photoshopped.
The clean crisp morning air beckons a ride. We rent bikes from Banff Adventures and leisurely cycle through the woods, along a narrow road passing the Vermillion Lakes, stopping at small docks to relax and breathing in the calm, before riding back to town for a stroll among the shops.
To complete our wild west experience, we’ve got to get on a horse. Banff Trail Riders leads us into the back country for an unforgettable trail ride through the wilderness.
Opting for the horse-drawn wagon ride, we sit up front listening to the clopping of horses’ hooves. Pine trees stand like combs in the gleaming sunshine. Arriving at 3 Mile Cabin we toss horse shoes, and run around trying to lasso each other before we’re called for dinner. The juicy cooked-to-order steaks and buttery baked potatoes of our Cowboy Cook-Out is a feast for kings.
There are endless ways to experience Banff, to appreciate unspoiled environment away from crowds, to enjoy a beautiful meaningful moment.
After an early to bed, comes an early to rise as we pack up the car for the perfect complement to any trip to Banff: Revelstoke, British Columbia. There are so many scenic stops along the way, and at each one passersby recommend another. Our first stop is Kicking Horse Pass to catch a glimpse of a train barrelling along the 1643 metres high spiral tunnels that connect Yoho and Banff through the Continental Divide. As we continue driving through this veritable Choose Your Own Adventure book, a sign says Natural Bridge. We turn off to a side road, hop out and hike toward a natural land bridge carved by the powerful force of the river below it.
Thunderous milky waters lather the rocks. We can see the mechanics of nature at work from the cleaving of massive boulders into narrow slats, to the petrification of sediment along the shore. As we pass from the Rockies to the Kootenays the topography changes. There are lush old growth forests and harrowing turns with awesome vistas, oh, and here’s a fun fact: signs at Golden city limits reading “Last Chance for Gas” aren’t kidding. If not for the road winding down the mountain, enabling me to coast in neutral for much of the last hour, we’d probably still be there at the time of this writing. Arriving in Revelstoke with 7km of gas left in the tank, I gratefully fill up.
At our next stop are twin attractions outside town: SkyTrek Adventure Park and The Enchanted Forest. Massive Western Red Cedar trees, some almost 1000 years old, stand before us like an army of Gods. Aerial trekking between them is a fantasy come true. It’s like tree top trekking meets American Ninja Warrior. Clipping on to a continuous belay, my son knows exactly what to do and within seconds he is high up on the ropes course testing his balance and agility.
Unclipping from one challenge into the next he races up a tree like Tarzan. Perhaps it’s the fresh air, or the energy of the old growth trees, but with each breath, I, too, feel invigorated. He bounds toward the Adventure Tower. I chase him to the Kid’s Jungle Gym and race through a giant spider net, along foot bridges and down a zipline to catch him. For all the thrills and skills that we’re exercising in this dreamscape, we can’t help noticing all the life-size fairy tale characters through the trees.
As we step into the magical world of the Enchanted Forest all our nursery rhymes and fairy tale heroes come to life. We enter the homes of Little Red Riding Hood, The Old Woman Who Lived in a Shoe and Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs, among others, and re-read each one as though we're characters in them.
Seated inside a towering tree-house fifty feet up in the forest canopy, we imagine that the over 350 life-size figurines around every corner will come to life after the park closes. Oh, what dreams might come.
The main draw to Revelstoke is the all-season destination of Revelstoke Mountain Resort. I give in to my son’s pleas to ride the Pipe Mountain Coaster. We board the gondola up to the top of the mountain where we wait in line to strap into a teensy sled and careen down a 1.4km twisting and turning pipe at up to 42 kilometres per hour. I feel sick. I absolutely do not want to do this, and am praying he changes his mind. Nope. As the instructions are explained to us, I listen more intently than I ever have before.
Holding onto the lever for my life, we’re released and begin picking up meteoric speed. I jerk the lever back to slow us down, and can feel the amusement of those watching from above. I don’t care. I’m comfortable now. Suddenly, my son jerks the lever forward and hurls us uncontrollably down the mountain. My screams can be heard in Vancouver! At the bottom, my panting is drowned out by his giggles. “Can we do it again?” He begs. Actually, I have to admit, that was incredible. Within minutes we are back up top, strapping in again. No need for instructions now. We’ve got this! We’re bombing down the mountain, winding through the trees with maximum excitement. What a rush! It’s time to leave, but, “Do you think we should go one more time?” I ask him. “Yes!” He replies. And away we go!
We return in time for a late afternoon paddle in Lake Louise. The captivating beauty of the Tiffany blue water is enhanced by the majesty of the mountains that surround us. “Take a good look son. I want you to remember this, because tomorrow we’re heading home.” He stares at the glacier in silence, and then looks back at me in tears. “Why are you crying?” I ask. “Because it’s so beautiful.” He wipes his eyes. The swish of swirling eddies from my paddle are relaxing. I teach him how to do a J-stroke so he can paddle us back, and watch him smile.
Inside the venerable Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise we dine at the Fairview Bar & Restaurant overlooking the lake. The warm hospitality is so welcoming. In short-order, house made sour dough arrives and we devour every delicious bite. The menu of Rocky Mountain cuisine includes an artfully-plated luscious elk carpaccio with micro-greens. The bison is so tender and has such beefy, umami flavour. Paired with an egg yolk-topped risotto, this dish has a rich confluence of textures. Lamb, seared crisp and tender, cuts like butter and is elevated with a decorative assemblage of charred squash, garlic cloves and citric berry jam. The kitchen aims to impress, and we are happily in their hands.
For dessert we spoon a smooth and creamy ambrosial trio of Alberta honey ice cream with a decadent melange of cookie crumb, honey comb and juniper. We’re too comfortable in these cushy seats, and don’t want to leave, but tomorrow is another day.
As the mountains disappear from my rear-view mirror, we have one more excursion before returning to the airport. Veering off to Mountain View County we enter the gates of Painted Warriors Ranch, a 100% First Nations owned facility for traditional-based learning. Tracey Klettl, descendant of Cree and Mohawk, is a riding instructor and National Champion archer. Riding along a trail, we learn about the area from an aboriginal perspective, and then begin a combined archery lesson and medicine walk.
With crossbow and compound bow in hand we aim for 3-D targets in the woods to learn the traditional ways of hunting bears, wolves and even fish. At the same time, we’re introduced to the nutraceutical properties of berries and leaves along the way. If we steep pine into tea it will balance gastrointestinal disorders—an appropriate segue to “Itchy Bum Berry”, which we’re told to avoid. Buffalo Berry is a natural blood thinner to spread on arrow tips when hunting. Yarrow leaves can be used for tea or band aids, but can also indicate the status of one’s health.
We rub the leaves in our hands. “If you smell sage, you’re either going to show symptoms of a cold soon, or you’re just getting over one now.” Klettl tells us. “If you smell mint then your body is in balance.” True enough. While my son smells mint, I, having just recuperated from being sick, smell sage. For lunch, we build a fire to roast sausages. For an accelerant we scrape a mass of tree sap onto the edge of a stick which, when lit, becomes a torch for us to ignite the kindling.
There is so much we can learn from ingredients we would have otherwise ignored. More important than the information, is the stimulation of our appreciation and our imagination.
A trip to Alberta and the BC interior offers such a wealth of opportunity to explore and discover, to commune with nature for an epic trip of a lifetime.