Auberge Saint Antoine, Quebec City’s Museum Hotel

A rite-of-passage during the lifetime of every Canadian should be to visit and experience the pleasures of Quebec City. It is a city rich in culture and history, with the majestic St. Lawrence River as its backdrop.

Auberge Saint Antoine in the heart of the Old Port has the status of one of the world’s few museum-hotels, intertwined as it is with the history of the city. More than 5,000 artifacts have been discovered here, with hundreds on a revolving display throughout the hotel.

It all began over three hundred years ago, in 1687, when two wealthy fur-traders built wharves where ships could dock and load their pelts to transport them to an enthusiastic and fashionable population of Europe. Trade flourished, and in 1822 a warehouse was built. That warehouse became Chez Muffy, the French-Canadian farmhouse-inspired restaurant that is now part of Auberge Saint Antoine.

Here, this morning, I enjoy breakfast from a dazzling menu that includes: Buckwheat and Nori pancakes, smoked salmon and a perfectly poached egg; La Grillade of grilled beef shoulder, sunny side up egg and more. All the ingredients are from sustainable and responsible farming and Quebec products. The extraordinary wine list includes 750 different labels from 14 countries, with a cellar that houses over 7000 bottles, many of which are private imports and vins de garde. Enjoying the food and ambiance of Chez Muffy, gives me the sense that I, too, am part of history.

It was not until 1992 that the first 23 rooms of the Auberge were built, succeeded by a major build in 2003. It was during this excavation that artifacts were found, dating back to the 1600s.

One need not have a professional eye to appreciate the museum quality of our surroundings. The Check-in and Concierge counters are made from 18th century wharf timbers and there are statuettes of Saint Anthony, protector of pilgrims. In fact, the entire comfortable lobby is a tribute to Quebec history. The walls are decorated with whimsical artifacts behind glass; a toothbrush, and a pair of glasses, for example, that show us the high standard of living centuries ago.

A stroll through the quaint streets of the town is the stuff that a shopper’s dreams are made of. The crafts, art and jewellery in shops owned by local artisans has us wanting some of everything. From jewels to alpaca socks to sheepskin hats, jackets, shoes and boots and, of course, sweatshirts emblazoned with the Quebec City logo. Outdoor cafes, pastry shops and restaurants that offer Quebec specialties line the streets. Can we leave Quebec City without tasting Poutine, the national dish, at least once?

I pause for a moment, close my eyes and open my ears to the United Nations of languages spoken in conversations around me. The world’s tourists seem to be converging on Quebec City this weekend. Even global street artists have found a convenient niche here. My companion insists I sit for a portrait by a street artist. As Javier Gadenas Ponce of Peru makes me comfortable in his booth, he stares at me intently, and begins drawing his interpretation of my face. “I am working in black and white,” he says, “but I must make your eyes blue”. Now, framed and hanging in my living room, it is quite a conversation piece.

There are surprises and unadvertised-secrets at Auberge St. Antoine. At Bar Artefact, besides a lovely bar menu and a mixologist extraordinaire, a heavy glass window shields one of the last two French canons, a witness of a battle long-gone and a cannonball still embedded in the wood of an English ship. In the bar we discover one of three military batteries of the city, carefully dismantled, numbered and reassembled, stone by stone, to preserve its memory. It is the only battery visible in Quebec today.

Led along some back-stairs to a small landing, the numbers 007 are on a door. Apparently, James Bond spent some time in the hotel when it first opened. The suite is sleek and spacious, befitting the coolest personality.

And there is more. A full-size private cinema is available for private screenings and events with a selection of films, including family-friendly titles, all available at the front desk. Access is by reservation only, but really, what a fabulous spot for a party. The hotel even supplies the popcorn.

Museums, Art galleries, and churches are within comfortable walking distance of Auberge St. Antoine. It is an excellent headquarters for a Quebec City adventure.

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