There’s a new chef in town. Executive Chef William Kresky comes to Cafe Boulud at Four Seasons Hotel Toronto with exemplary qualifications.
At age 15, young William began his culinary career in a local Kitchener restaurant, where he fell in love with the art and intensity of the kitchen. Over the years, his dedication led him to renowned establishments such as The French Laundry in California, and Gramercy Tavern and Blue Hill at Stone Barns in New York. These experiences honed his skills and deepened his appreciation for culinary excellence. Working in some of Toronto’s top kitchens, Alo and Richmond Station, he went on to train at Cafe Boulud in New York.
“Chef William Kresky’s arrival marks an exciting new chapter for Café Boulud Toronto,” says Patrick Pollak, General Manager of Four Seasons Hotel Toronto. “His innovative approach and dedication to culinary excellence align with our vision, and we are confident that our guests will be delighted by the exceptional dining experiences he will create.”
For me, this is a call to action, and we are here for a weekend Brunch to celebrate a birthday. A flute of lovely Prosecco sets the tone for a sumptuous, elegant lunch in the style we have come to expect from a Daniel Boulud restaurant.
Green Goddess Salad captures our imagination and our palate, with a most imaginative selection of crisp ingredients including sugar snap peas, kale, asparagus, the mild sting of serrano chilli softened by diced avocado and the whole dish festooned with sliced radish. A liberal splash of creamy Green Goddess dressing, and a tray of fresh sourdough bread would be quite enough for some. But we delve further into the seasonal menu.
At Brunch, we crave some fresh fruit. Often, in restaurants, melons disappoint, being a few days shy of ripeness. Not today. Today each morsel of Honeydew, Cantaloupe, Pineapple, Watermelon and a scattering of berries is at its peak.
How better to celebrate a birthday than with Steak and Eggs. The flatiron steak (Martin’s Family Farm) is tender and deliciously medium rare, partnered with fingerling potatoes roasted in their jackets, and topped with two picture-perfect eggs, over-easy. Add the drama of chimichurri sauce, and all’s well with the world. Searching the menu for something lighter, I see Smoked Salmon and Avocado Tartine. A generous slice of toasted sourdough, creme fraiche infused with dill and Avocado make a luscious base for the fine smoked salmon, pearls of roe, and the zest of pickled red onion.
Attention is being paid by Chef Kresky, in an area that I particularly appreciate. His culinary philosophy is deeply rooted in seasonality, sustainability, and the harmonious blend of classic and modern techniques. Each dish, whether composed of many ingredients or few, is cleanly organized with no false notes, no sloppy mingling, each flavour and texture singular, yet agreeable with the partners on the plate.
We had mentioned the word Birthday, so now, a cake with a candle is brought to the table for my dinner partner. However, I cannot resist the Chocolate Molten Cake, so I’m still ordering that. It is, of course, a decadent confection of warm oozing chocolate with cool coconut sorbet and tiny crunches of caramelized banana.
We’re both so pleased with the peaceful ambience in the room, the sunshine pouring in through shaded windows, and the delicious brunch we have just enjoyed, that I ask to meet the chef.
Chef Kresky is an affable and charming young man, who answers a question I am sure many others would ask. I ask him, ” Since this is a Daniel Boulud restaurant, and it’s his menu and his process, are you required to go by the book, and does that inhibit your ability to be creative and try new ideas?”
“Chef Boulud is very generous, as far as giving me the autonomy and the creative freedom,” he responds, “within certain parameters. It’s a French restaurant so we cook classical French cuisine. As far as the ingredients that we use, and having my own little bit of creative flair, they allow me to express myself. Obviously, it has to be true to their brand of excellence, and sticking to tradition—as far as the cooking goes—but as far as creativity, they’ve given me quite a lot of freedom. So, it’s been really lovely, actually.”
Can a chef have a favorite dish? One of Chef Kresky’s favorites is Rotisserie Duck, one of my favorites as well. “The current iteration,” he says, “is that it’s finished with wildflower honey and spices, and presented crisp and shiny.” If one needs a reason to return to Cafe Boulud, we’ve just heard it here. As we stroll out of the dining room, another table is celebrating a birthday as well. We all wish each other a very Happy Birthday and exit smiling.
Cafe Boulud, Four Seasons Hotel Toronto, 416-963-6000
