Earl’s King West Patios

The sidewalk on King Street West in front of Earl’s is an impromptu fashion runway showcasing the trendiest, sexiest, slinkiest upscale-casual wear of this summer season. The girls are showing off navels and cleavage. Was it only a year or two ago that unshapely sweat-suits and your brother’s t-shirt was the style of the day? High heels are back, taken out of the depths of the closet where they languished during Covid and a while thereafter. And the boys too, have been working out, showing their pecs in t-shirts a size too small, jeans that require standing only and sneakers that cost as much as a car payment.

While I sip an excellent Nitro Espresso Martini, I can only admire in awe when I should be opening my massive menu and placing my order. My companion enjoys a White Peach Whisky Sour, smooth, frothy and a perfect refreshment for summer. I have high hopes that the kitchen is as inspirational as the scene in the three-story restaurant with its hip selection of patios in front and up top. The menu covers all the bases: Seafood and Sushi, Burgers and Bowls, Plant-Based, Chicken and Ribs and much more.

Our servers are so attentive and attractive on this very busy night, and have all the patience in the world to offer good suggestions and deal with our preferences. They know all the nuances of this very large menu, and no question requires them to “go and ask the kitchen.”

Yuzu Calamari is a star. Scored, crunchy and meaty. It’s given a kick from togarashi and black sesame seed mayo, and nuanced with the added cucumber, watermelon radish and jalapeno garnish. This is a great cocktail pairing and sharing dish. The Sesame Citrus Bowl sounds interesting, but the Ube noodles look colorless and pale in comparison to its accoutrements. Without the accompanying protein (which we had the option of ordering, and which would have been a good idea,) it is unappetizing and tastes bland.

We share a Seafood Platter consisting of oysters, prawn cocktail, ahi tuna tataki, crispy prawn roll and lobster tail with appropriate condiments. Earl’s is based in the West Coast, where adhering to sustainability and being Ocean Wise is de rigueur. I do not see an indication that this is Ocean Wise, and wonder about the sustainability of this platter. To those who recognize that this is a concern, it matters. The baby oysters are the tiniest I have seen anywhere in the world, as is the tiniest of lobsters. I also take issue with the shrimp. Can a kitchen be so distracted that they do not remove the unappealing black vein from shrimp? The Tuna Tataki is soft and has lost its texture, either from over-marinating or perhaps it has been frozen. I don’t think that Earl’s, whose home base is in Vancouver, would be happy with this seafood platter.

We’re happily surprised by the reasonably-priced steak menu (example: 12 oz. Prime Sirloin $59.75), from which we enjoy our favorite cut, the Ribeye. Tender, robust and gently seasoned, it’s what we expect, and with the accompanying crisp fries, it’s satisfies our patio craving.

We have a winner. Cajun Blackened Chicken with confit garlic butter, warm potato salad, bacon, coleslaw, kale oil is juicy and crisp and gives our taste buds the right amount of heat. This hits all the right notes, and begs for another cocktail or refreshing beer.

Dessert? Absolutely. I am not one to pass up Sticky Toffee Chocolate Pudding with an Almond Florentine, Vanilla Ice cream and fresh berries. Our server also recommends the Key Lime Pie and we oblige. Rich, smooth and thick, with tropical citrus and toasted coconut, it sings of summer and pairs well with an espresso.

Now, making our way through the throngs to the car park, we agree that Earl’s new patios have provided a worthy perch from which to enjoy the energy of a summer night out in downtown Toronto.

Earl’s King West, 437-780-8726, 601 King Street West.