Canada's Greatest Culinary and Wine Adventure

On the evening of Thursday, November 19, 2009, the top chefs in Toronto went head-to-head, competing for the coveted Gold Medal Plate victory. And what a beautiful competition it was. The South Hall of the Metro Toronto Convention Centre was transformed into a glittering ballroom. 2008 Toronto Gold Medalist, Chef Patrick Lin of Sen5es Restaurant, greeted VIP guests to an array of perfectly constructed canapés that set standards high. I first encountered a filo cone filled with juicy, pink slices of Peking duck, hoisin sauce and sprouts.

Chef Lin then presented me with a rich, subtle foie gras crème brulee, complete with sugar crust adding a touch of crunchy sweetness. Second, a pureed walnut-foie gras ball topped with slice of thinly sliced orange (meant to be eaten first, and adding the sense of clean palette before indulging once again). And finally, and always with a smile, a round slice of foie gras atop a fresh, refreshing julienne of string beans.

I have judged many chef competitions and let me tell you – it is hard work! All of the competing chefs did a phenomenal job. If I had to pick my favorites, I would certainly have to choose Note Bene Chef David Lee’s “Crisp Chicken Skin and Chicken Cartilage” for innovation.

The potato-chip crisp chicken skin was light, yet had the rich taste of roasted chicken, and was topped with plum hoisin and sour apple compote and the soft-yet-chewy texture of the cartilage end of the keel bone.

A highlight was George Chef Lorenzo Loseto’s beef shortrib with chanterelle mushrooms and smoked figs. With the cold weather approaching, there is something comforting about braised beef shortrib, and this one pleasantly fell apart to the touch of my fork. The smoky, autumnal chantrelles and figs added the perfect amount of acidity and sweetness to the richness of the beef, which was the perfect food for the cold, rainy evening.

A most beautiful submission was done by Ted Corrado of C5 at the ROM. He presented smoked mackrel and Hokkaido scallop, barley, tatsoi, speckled trout roe and picked gooseberry, with Mornay sauce. This is something I could eat and enjoy every day.

Anne Yarymowich also wowed with her purple-themed presentation, which featured a lovely cream-coloured roasted glazed pork belly garnished with purple cabbage sauerkraut, brandied blue prune plums, and blue potato chips, zipped up with plum cardamom mustard.

I can’t end without mentioning Jonathan Gushue, of Langdon Hall Country House Hotel and Spa’s, torchon of rouge foie gras, nestled around a Black Bow Farms pig cheek, atop a mound of hearty, nourishing de puy lentils, and garnished with lobster pudding (for which he provided the recipe to guests), chewy honey pickled chantrelles and parsley root on a swipe of Warsaw apple cider jus, adding just a touch of spicy sweetness and acidity to the robustness of the dish. Guests also were offered a lovely sachet of basil seeds from Langdon’s garden, which I plan to plant on my sunny kitchen windowsill.

The wait for the judges’ decision was long – but we were well entertained. Steven Page played two sets; a live auction raised many thousands of dollars, and the videos were emotionally charged. Have we all wasted our youth by not training to become athletes?

At last, the winners were announced. Gold, David Lee of Nota Bene restaurant, Silver, Jonathon Gushue of Langdon Hall, Bronze, Anne Yarymowich of Frank restaurant. In the end, however, it is our Olympic athletes who are the winners.

By: Sophie Kaftal