Toni Bulloni is a sliver of a restaurant that boasts a wide appeal. In front, there's a long bar on one wall, then it's up a few stairs to a small dining room in the rear. Clever to paint a mural of an Italian street scene opposite the bar -- it gives a sense of space.

With a name like Toni Bulloni, which suggests a fast food joint, who knew that their forte is fresh fish? A blackboard outside, near the front door, lists the day's oceanic offerings. Tonight, there is sea bass, salmon, scallops, gamberi and snapper, as well as an Italian kitchen filled with pastas and sauces.

That’s just one of the surprises that we find in this unassuming, relaxed restaurant. Besides the delectability of the dishes, we recognize the diners around us: boldface names who are captains of industry, communications executives and real estate developers and their families. We’d expect these people to be dining at the restaurants which have star-chefs, rather than at this casual, neighborhood trattoria.

We've come in at 7 p.m. on a Monday with no reservation and every table is filled. Seems that there are regulars who love this place. Still, in short order, we're seated. The walls are hung with artworks that tell a culinary tale: A clove of garlic, a tomato and an aubergine. And just for the thrill of trying something that was forbidden by law until a few years ago, we brought our own wine. In fact, my friend Margaret, who does everything the right way, brought three different bottles in a portable wine caddy so that we could choose the appropriate wine with dinner.

The other surprise is Siva. Siva is the face, heart and soul of TB. He helps tend bar, takes orders, serves dinner, pours wine and is involved in every facet of the place. I wouldn't be surprised if I were to find him in the kitchen. In fact, he has taken over when necessary.

"I work two shifts every day," Siva says, smiling happily. "And I take Sunday and Wednesday off."

While the huge Italian-style menu is peppered with jokes, puns and quotes, they are quite serious about what comes out of the kitchen.

Siva brings two balloon wine glasses and agrees with our choice of wine. For a corkage fee of $20, he opens and pours our bottle of Rozenblum Zinfandel from California.

Most of the regular clientele start with crostini. Ditto for us; and we love the huge, hot, puffy pizza bianco that comes topped with chopped tomato, herbs and garlic.

Following the trend, we too pass over the menu and order from the blackboard of daily specials. Sea bass has been scored with a sharp knife so that when it's baked, it looks like two large chrysanthemums. And the grilled veal chop is as credible as those served in top steak houses. Unusual in its generosity, we are amazed at the array of vegetables that fill the plates: Grilled zucchini, luscious pimento, chopped rapini -- sauteed just long enough to bring out the richest flavor -- and loads of chopped garlic.

I haven't eaten this much garlic since the last invasion of the vampires, and I love it. It brings the realization that garlic, the most flavorful of seasonings, seems to have done a disappearing act in this city's restaurants.

After these strong flavours, we need dessert. Siva is holding court at the bar, so we stroll over and peer into the dessert cooler.

They still make Tiramisu. "The best in the city," Siva says. And the regular clientele hold it among their favorites as well. How about that wild blueberry pie -- paper thin crust, with a two-inch, dense filling of blueberries, made sans sugar and fat. After a family size portion of lasagna, this is the dessert for me.

Next day, I pay attention as I pass by and notice people are lined up for lunch.

The reason has become clear to me. It’s a combination of Siva's sparkling personality, the generous portions, the freshness and honesty of the ingredients, the reasonable prices and the warm welcome. There’s no phony baloney at Toni Bulloni.

TONI BULLONI TRATTORIA AMERICANA Downtown Location: 156 Cumberland St., 416-967-7676; Uptown Location: 7117 Bathurst St, 905-889-4141.